How to replace and re-cut a plastic backflash
Re: Wonders allwin back plastic
I have just had a good look at it and it is only the top 4 cups that are damaged, but I must say down where the ball gets hit by the hammer has worn through the plastic and is just starting to damage the back picture so it may be a case of replacing the plastic after all.
Is it this I need? I only see 1mm or 2mm. It's free postage if you buy 2 sheets so it's not that bad.
http://www.artstore.co.uk/clear-styrolu ... 297-p-7700
Sorry, I found the one you mentioned.
I managed to find the same stuff on eBay so I ordered some. Any good tips on what to use for the holes?
Is it this I need? I only see 1mm or 2mm. It's free postage if you buy 2 sheets so it's not that bad.
http://www.artstore.co.uk/clear-styrolu ... 297-p-7700
Sorry, I found the one you mentioned.
I managed to find the same stuff on eBay so I ordered some. Any good tips on what to use for the holes?
- badpenny
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Re: Wonders allwin back plastic
I always use holes.widget2k4 wrote:Any good tips on what to use for the holes?
Re: Wonders allwin back plastic
Never thought of that BP
Before I drive on and cause some damage, can anyone advise how these round bits come off as they appear to be stuck.
You can see the damage on the back flash where the ball has eaten through the plastic.
I don't normally complain about screwing
but removing them 24 cups involves a lot of it.
Before I drive on and cause some damage, can anyone advise how these round bits come off as they appear to be stuck.
You can see the damage on the back flash where the ball has eaten through the plastic.
I don't normally complain about screwing
but removing them 24 cups involves a lot of it.
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Re: Wonders allwin back plastic
Personally I wouldn't have worried about that, it's part of its history and story.
If it was worse and coming loose I'd probably get hold of a sheet of acetate (the sort that was used on overhead projectors) and trim a length to stick over it.
The "Return it to Showroom Condition" methodology is something I've never suffered from, however each to their own.
BP
If it was worse and coming loose I'd probably get hold of a sheet of acetate (the sort that was used on overhead projectors) and trim a length to stick over it.
The "Return it to Showroom Condition" methodology is something I've never suffered from, however each to their own.
BP
Re: Wonders allwin back plastic
I have got some acetate sheets - the reason behind it is the ball is getting stuck in the cups as the back plastic is cracking around the cups, making it unplayable, so I may as well replace the lot in one go. I just don't want to cause damage taking them round things out as I don't see how they fasten on?
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Re: Wonders allwin back plastic
When you remove the flash they will come with it because they're crimped against the back of it. You have to gently bend the crimping just enough to free them.
Cutting the plastic - culled from a previous post:
Cutting the plastic - culled from a previous post:
pennymachines wrote:I would advise cutting the plastic oversize so that its edges are held securely behind the wooden frame... Don't try hammering pins through the plastic because it's liable to split and splinter. Always pre-drill the holes. This applies to cutting as well - mark the shape to cut and drill out the corners before inserting a blade. This prevents over-cutting and splitting beyond the intended cut-line.
Re: Wonders allwin back plastic
Thanks PM
I have ordered a hole cutting kit to see if that will work?
I have ordered a hole cutting kit to see if that will work?
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Re: Wonders allwin back plastic
I hate using Acrylic sheet as it cracks and splits at the first touch of a saw or drill; even if I use a pair of wood battens to sandwich it whilst cutting it still sometimes cracks a short while afterwards; very long cuts I find are impossible to make with a hand saw.
I prefer to use polycarbonate sheet because it is far more pliable, doesn't split or crack easily and is therefore much easier to work with; it can, with the right tooling, be folded cold or hot moulded to almost any shape.
Polycarbonate is available on eBay with thicknesses from ½ mm up and in a range of sheet sizes. There are two clear grades 9030 (standard) and Exell D (high security); it is sometimes available in a small range of colours.
John
I prefer to use polycarbonate sheet because it is far more pliable, doesn't split or crack easily and is therefore much easier to work with; it can, with the right tooling, be folded cold or hot moulded to almost any shape.
Polycarbonate is available on eBay with thicknesses from ½ mm up and in a range of sheet sizes. There are two clear grades 9030 (standard) and Exell D (high security); it is sometimes available in a small range of colours.
John
Re: Wonders allwin back plastic
My advice would be to remove all the gubbins from the playfield, remove the backflash and take it to a print shop and get it laminated. The screw holes can then be pierced with something like a nail with a ground point - larger holes can be punched with leather punches (if you have them) or carefully cut with a craft knife.
Re: Wonders allwin back plastic
JC that is a fantastic idea, wish I had thought of that. If I don't succeed with this acetate and leather punch that's exactly what I am going to do.
In fact I might just do it anyway to save a lot of hassle.
In fact I might just do it anyway to save a lot of hassle.
Re: Wonders allwin back plastic
I was advised by a member of this site to do it in the following manner, which is what I did. Get a piece of 15mm copper pipe about 6 inches long; hold the end over a flame to heat it (in my case I used the gas hob on the cooker); holding the other end of the pipe with a rag or similar around it as it gets hot; then, having secured the acetate sheet on the backboard, pierce the acetate with the heated pipe through the holes. I would imagine whatever method is chosen it can get a bit tedious but worth it in the end. I used a panel pin to make the screw holes.
Re: Wonders allwin back plastic
Perfect!
Looks so much better and it works now, which is a big bonus. Quite easy to do once you start - leather punch kit is man's best friend.
Thanks to everyone who helped.
Looks so much better and it works now, which is a big bonus. Quite easy to do once you start - leather punch kit is man's best friend.
Thanks to everyone who helped.
Re: Wonders allwin back plastic
Too right Stu.
It's amazing how much dirt there was under that old plastic and how clean it came with a bit careful cleaning.
It's amazing how much dirt there was under that old plastic and how clean it came with a bit careful cleaning.
Re: allwin plastic backflash for defiant
Topic merged - Site Admin.
Does anyone know where I can get some plastic sheeting that would be suitable for cutting and making a new backflash for a Defiant allwin?
This sort of stuff:
Thanks.
Does anyone know where I can get some plastic sheeting that would be suitable for cutting and making a new backflash for a Defiant allwin?
This sort of stuff:
Thanks.
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Re: allwin plastic backflash for defiant
pennymachines wrote:You can buy coloured acrylic sheets from craft stores and various online shops. I buy UV-protected clear plastic off a roll at a garden centre (for making cloches etc.). You can then back-paint it to the exact colour/colours required.
Cutting holes in backflash
Topic merged - Site Admin.
I am finally getting around to putting a new backflash on my Bryans Fivewin.
As you only get one chance at making the ball release hole in the backflash, before making a mess of it, can anyone recommend a tried and tested way of getting the best result.
I intend firstly to glue the backlash in place, then when dry to cut the holes.
Any advice out there greatly accepted.
I am finally getting around to putting a new backflash on my Bryans Fivewin.
As you only get one chance at making the ball release hole in the backflash, before making a mess of it, can anyone recommend a tried and tested way of getting the best result.
I intend firstly to glue the backlash in place, then when dry to cut the holes.
Any advice out there greatly accepted.
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Re: New Bryans Backflash ball release hole
Put a light behind it to locate it and use a pin to pierce through the outline.
Tidy up with a hobby knife.
Tidy up with a hobby knife.
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Re: New Bryans Backflash ball release hole
I'm not sure why you want to glue the backflash. The fittings should hold it in place perfectly adequately. Bowing and warping of old plastic flashes was caused by expansion, particularly when machines were operated outside in direct sunlight. Had they been glued, I think the plastic would still have moved, tearing off the underside graphics.
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