Allwin Flash Win Payout - Balls Drop

[JC]

I'm trying to keep things as original as possible. I know I could always go with slightly larger screws and re-thread things...but I'd rather not.

If I had one of these machines myself, I could tell you what the threads are - but I don't, so I can't. Ideally, we need someone with the same machine who is able to measure the threads.
In the meantime, there must be screws elsewhere on the machine of the same size - try and see what you can find. Assuming you can find a screw that will fit the tapped holes, and assuming you don't have screw pitch gauges, at least try to measure the thread diameter fairly accurately. Next you need to make a judgement as to whether it is a course or fine thread. You can do this by comparing it with any other screws you can lay your hands on (not necessarily from the machine).
I believe there is a fair chance that the thread will be 1/8" BSW (Whitworth), which is a course thread. You'll probably find it difficult to source over there, but UNC should be easily obtainable. Although Whitworth and Unified threads aren't intended to be interchangeable, they sometimes are - without referring to thread tables, I can't tell you. If you can confirm the screw diameter and whether it is course or fine, I'll try to advise further.
If it turns out to be a fine thread, then it will almost certainly be BA, in which case you're buggered! Although BA threads are theoretically Imperial, they actually have more in common with metric threads and are generally not interchangeable with anything (although for some sizes you may find a close UNF thread).

[13rebel]

If as JC suggests, it is a 1/8 whitworth thread, it may be worth trying a number 5 UNC, as this has the same major diameter and the same threads per inch (40). It has a different thread profile of 60 degrees, as opposed to 55, and flat crests rather than rounded, but has a good chance of succeeding. It won't be original, as you would like, but worth trying to assess fitment then you can think about getting the whitworth.

[lets__]

As it turned out, upon closer inspection and getting into it more. A few holes had been rethreaded for American threads. So, I just went ahead and "adjusted" the others.

THANK YOU!

Oh, any idea about the power consumption (amps or watts @ 230v) of the existing solenoid?

[lets__]

Any opinions on this "redraw" for the top glass?

[pennymachines]

If the colours match your original (taking dye fade into account), it should be fine. Could you upload the full sized version (without 'proof' text)?
You can see a Shefras Flashwin on location in the 1960s at Pier Amusements, Western Super-Mare: http://penny-arcade.info/amusement-arca ... m-the-past
I was offered the allwins from this arcade in the 1990s, but didn't fancy the fleck paint, or the price, at the time...

[lets__]

Well, I think it's coming alone quite nicely. Still don't have the electric pay-out working. The new top glass is just printed on a piece of paper, sandwiched between two pieces of glass. Looks rather nice, but I still need to get it printed onto glass. Gotta refab and replace the bottom door...not sure what type of wood it is though. The top lock I'm pretty sure is original, the bottom one is not. Not sure how to deal with this. Any ideas where I might be able to find a replacement?

Also, there's one problem I'm not sure how to correct. The hole the "hammer" goes through to hit the ball is worn to the point that the ball will actually roll back through it. Also the hammer doesn't seem to hit the ball squarely and it takes an odd bounce going up the first part of the "ramp" and comes right back down (if hit gently it will make it all the way round.)

[badpenny]

Most of us have done the high quality print onto paper/card and then sandwich between two sheets of glass trick. So if you find somewhere to print onto glass or silk screen print then do please share.
Some have been successful in laser printing decals ..... not me.

Usually there is a rubber bumper positioned inside the chrome shield that houses the hammer. It stops it from smacking into and destroying the front plate, as you have observed. It will also cure the ball from going airborne. To repair the damage try looking for something/anything that is thin gauge and chromed or stainless. Cut a strip to cover the destroyed area and tack it on over the enlarged hole.
Try one of those shops like "The Range" or "B&M" that sell cheap blingy household items, perhaps a photo frame?
As for the missing lower door it would probably be easier to source a light coloured wood and stain it to match the rest of the machine. You'll find a lock by comparing the upper one to what your local lock smith or eBay have on offer.

BP

[lets__]

Thank you!

So, is the end of the hammer that hits the ball supposed to have rubber on it? I can probably make a rubber tip from a pinball machines shooter work. Right now, it seems like the hammer hit too low on the ball. It also seems like over the years, the hammer has gotten lower, to the point of wearing away the bottom of the hole in the shield, and actually causing some wear to the "rail" the ball sits on. I'll have to take that part of the game apart again and have a closer look.

There's a company near me that will print on glass. They even know all about printing for backlit arcade games (Printing a layer of white over the back of the entire image to help disperse the back lighting. They did a glass for another game I have and it came out absolutely wonderful. It's just a bit pricey. Not sure it would be much help to you...I'm near San Francisco

[badpenny]

I'm quite near my back yard.
No the hammer didn't have a rubber tip. A wad of rubber was placed inside box/cover under the hole that's become enlarged. The upright arm of the hammer strikes the rubber buffer stopping it from hitting the actual case .... which is what's happened.
BP

[pennymachines]

Take a look at solutions to the problem offered in this thread.
It's a R&W allwin, but the principle's the same.

[badpenny]

Go to sleep everyone it's bedtime.

[pennymachines]