Electric Amuser, help with shock parts please

[coppinpr]

BP has very kindly been advising me on the replacement of the electric exciter in my Amuser but I'm embarrassed to keep asking him so I'm widening the net for advice (this does not men BP should stop advising me please).

As is often the case, the exciter is missing from my machine. I have been lucky enough to find and buy one on ebay at a good price. It's from a Victorian piece of medical equipment; it's larger but will still fit and appears to at least partly work.

I understand the basic theory of what goes where but there are gaps in what I know that need answers and I need to know what connections to use IF it's working, as I think it might be.

First, the photo below is what I have and what I know so far is this,

Power comes in through the two wires visible on the left; one goes to the terminal bar marked "C", the other wire goes to the lower connection on the switch "B", "B" connects on the underside with a visible wire to "A".
"F" is a hand operated sliding bar and, I'm guessing, regulates the voltage of the unit.
The far right terminal on bar "C" is factory marked (P), terminal "D" is factory marked (S) and "E" is factory marked (P/S).
The two terminals either end of "C" are screw down connectors, as are "A","D", and "E"

"F" has no terminal connections.
The bar in the middle of "C" is springy and has a button on the end which hovers over a similar button on the unit, the adjuster half way along the bar adjusts the distance the button is clear of the unit. (Note the switch "B" looks in the photo to be touching the bar. It is not and is not meant to).

All I have managed to do so far (mostly because I don't want to damage anything) is, when I apply power from a 9v battery through the wires (or directly to "A" and "C") the button will buzz a little as it tries to reach the button on the unit but is not constant. I have not really tried adjusting the spring bar to see it makes a difference.

All advice and info is much needed. And I know there is some info already on the site (Mr P may well decide to merge this post). My first actual questions (to help me understand the unit better) are:
1. should the button constantly vibrate or should it just close the gap?
2. will the unit only hold the charge while its connected (and or vibrating)?
3. which terminals would the discharge come from?
4. do the experts think the unit seems to be working?

I know this sounds confusing but I didn't want to leave anything out.

[badpenny]

Show the boys and girls what the other side of the block of wood looks like, I guess there are connections back there that need to be understood.

The fact you've now managed to find some "Buzzings" (ebay again?) if they're not constant you need to adjust the gap between the contacts ...... probably wind them closer.
Sounds hopeful.

[gameswat]

Coppin, you need to search for Induction Coils and you'll find tons of info on them. http://www.sparkmuseum.com/INDUCT.HTM

[widget2k4]

Can you not work it off the wiring diagram gameswat did for me?

[coppinpr]

The only wiring visible on the underside are the two wires I mentioned - all else is buried under a layer I prefer not to remove, unless it looks like I might get somewhere.

[coppinpr]

Thanks for the info. Can anyone tell me the answers to my questions 2 and 3? All the coils I've seen have a connection on both ends of the unit. This one clearly never did. I guess it's just guess work then. I've been holding back on tests till I know if I am likely to damage it with a 9v battery, and if the unit needs to be vibrating when it discharges. (Will it lose all charge as soon as the power to the unit is cut?) I know nothing about these which is why the questions might seem stupid to the experts.

[badpenny]

You could trace where hidden wires emerge by using a continuity meter or by making one up How to make a continuity tester, diagrams and videos

Then you'll know which are the battery input wires and which are the coil/jolt output wires.
Although if you've already had it buzzing I'd guess you're already there, and simply need to get the gap right on the contact trembler thingy.

[slotalot]

This diagram should give you some idea of what is going on ..
hope it helps

[gameswat]

1. should the button constantly vibrate or should it just close the gap? Yes should vibrate, you can always hear these machines when running
2. will the unit only hold the charge while its connected (and or vibrating)? No will not hold charge when not running
3. which terminals would the discharge come from? D&E
4. do the experts think the unit seems to be working? You've had some vibration so the low voltage part of the circuit is ok, but the high voltage is a delicate thin winding so you never know until testing the continuity or a shock comes out.

[coppinpr]

Thanks GS, that is exactly what I needed to know

I started with a 4.5v battery and couldn't seem to get anything so I switched to 9v which is where I'm getting some reaction. Do you think 9v would be OK for this application?

[coppinpr]

Thanks to my new confidence gained after getting answers for Gameswat and others (thanks again) I set about some serious testing and found, much to my delight, that the unit seems to work perfectly using the layout shown below. I get a constant buzz (sound) from the unit when the switch on the left is closed and a good reading on my tester and a good buzz (shock) when I touch the two terminals. As can be seen, I have the unit set at 50% on its slider bar for this test and the shock is quite strong.

Now I need to work out how I get a coin to switch it on and the ball plunger to switch it off (all the switch gear must have been removed when the shock feature was removed) but I think I'll now be able to bring it all back to full working order.

One question. I have tested using the PP3 battery but intend to install the PP9. Does it make any difference which one I use, other than the PP9 will last longer?

[widget2k4]

Follow this post and you will see how to activate it and deactivate it with the coin and trigger. I don't think it would take much making. Someone at the auction took lots of detailed photos of my working one as he was hoping to win the one you won and replicate it.

Electric Amuser info needed

[coppinpr]

Having read all I can on the Amuser, I'm a little confused about the outcome of the shock. Some seem to say you only got it on a win, others you always got it (which is what I believe to be the case or it wouldn't have fulfilled the gaming "get out of jail" it was supposed to achieve).

Also, the two knobs Some say the shock was delivered through them, others say not. They are somewhat pointless if not used yet they seem never to have been connected to anything in my machine

[aristomatic]

You should just get any old Bally bandit..

guaranteed loads of shocks win or no win

and no need to keep replacing battery.......

GP

[coppinpr]

interesting idea,Im surprised Henry Powell hasnt had the idea of putting a couple of brass knobs on the front of old German electric slots and selling them as "electric amusers", but then perhaps sudden death would reduce the number of punters

[widget2k4]

The one I had which was identical to the one you got gave the shock as soon as the penny went in by the two large knobs and the flicker broke the current and the bulb lit if you won. This is how it got past the laws back in the day.

[coppinpr]

Indeed that sounds very much like the one I have. The light is working correctly on a winner. There is no sign of any connections on the brass knobs. Did yours show any?

I know there is lots of info on the site about the switch system. I can see how the ball plunger will switch it off but I can't get my head 'round how the coin passes by and switches the unit on and then it stays on till the plunger flicks the switch.

[widget2k4]

That was my machine. The first pictures on the link I posted are actually your machine. If you look at the ball release lever that the penny hits, you can see a bar connected to it that releases the switch.

Mine just fastened to the brass knobs inside by wrapping the wire around the threads and tightening the nut, nothing fancy in those days