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Couldn't agree more TF. I wouldn't touch Facebook et al with a barge pole but the information and help here has proved invaluable in my restoration projects. However the sheer knowledge of some members can be intimidating. I'm sure it makes some members wary of posting and risking their wroth (and ...

Yes one 'engineer' on Salvage Hunters described rust as patina! It's all a matter of taste I suppose.

Rubbing in a dark coloured furniture polish when the paint has dried, works well too.

Not sure of the size you need but there seem to be lots of leaf switches available in USA - less so in UK but https://www.mr-rcworld.co.uk/shop/searc ... eaf+switch does have one.

Unlikely to be M4. Much more likely to be Whitworth. Have a look at https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... s&_sacat=0

Also at https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/sear ... uriel-Pape
without overprinting.

I should have been clearer. My suggestion of applying heat with a heat gun was for a metal screw (or bolt) seized in metal not wood.
My restoration of a Brenner Ball past the arrow has certainly given me lots of practice!

I have just about completed the de-rusting and cleaning of my Brenner BPTA and beginning to investigate how the 'broken' bit of bent wire is supposed to function. I am becoming convinced that the bent wire is a later addition and a bit of a bodge. Originally it might have been a piece of steel plate ...

I find the application of a little heat works well. I use a heat gun to apply heat until the metal is too hot to touch. Then as Mr PM says, an impact hammer usually gets them out. As a last resort I drill them out but this often causes problems when trying to centre the drill on the screw head (and ...

Blimey, Big Brother is watching. I'll have to be careful with my Premium Bonds or ERNIE may come knocking.