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What a brilliant idea. However the typical allwin has some gaps in the tracks. The ball is launched into the spiral and gaps allow it to spin repeatedly on an inner path until it loses speed and falls into a cup or returns to the start. I've attached a photo to help explain but I've no idea how you ...

Thanks guys. It's useful to know it is a mark 1. Would there be a patent drawing for it somewhere?
It really is confusing having numbers that don't relate to a payout (or anything else?).

The payout is automatic (when it works). I have attached a photo to help identify the model. The knob on the left releases the ball and sets the arrow. Hope this helps.

Topic merged - Site Admin. I am restoring a Brenner Ball Past the Arrow arcade machine (it is very rusty and dirty). While dismantling it, I discovered the bent wire part shown in the photo. Can anyone tell me if it is broken, what it should look like and where the other end should go please? Any h...

You might be able to find a replacement lock (new or old) but, in general, it is better to keep the original lock and get a new key cut by a good locksmith. It often works out cheaper too and your machine will keep its value better as collectors like everything to be original.

chris roadhog wrote: ↑Tue May 30, 2023 12:15 pm Their success all came to a very sad ending.

You can't just leave us hanging on like that

Here is a nice compilation of Blackpool in the 1960s. Some arcade machines and lots of nostalgia.

I should have known that I wouldn't beat Mr PM to the draw.

I thought this might interest some of you. All introduced by a rather large Yorkshire man.

It looks complete (what is that bit of string doing there?) so should be fairly easy to fix. I found some of the springs needed to be replaced in my 'Many Happy Returns' version.
Beware though: the chrome looks shot and that is expensive to replate.

I seem to remember using DIL ICs (dual inline integrated circuits) back in the 1960s. They were very simple by today's standards - some were simply reed relays or a few OP amps in a plastic package. Your photo shows a ribbon cable which I don't remember until much later, although that could be becau...

Special - it looks like you shifted when you shouldn't have.

Masking tape the letters and carefully cut them to shape with a scalpel. I have done a couple of machines like that.

He only gets an 80% approval rating which says a lot.

BTW in the video he recommends adding salt (sodium chloride) to the electrolyte. I would try it without at first because this action can give off chlorine gas (used in WW1 to kill people!). If better conductivity is needed, then sodium carbonate (washing soda) is a safer choice.

The nickel finish looks dull though. No idea if a brightening agent can be used. Just buffing the nickel makes it look shiny. It does have a golden tinge though. Of course anything pre 1930s was probably nickel plated rather than chromed anyway. I have never used the acid - just a degreaser and tha...

No need for a fancy kit, just have a look at this video.



It works well for me and he is amusing.

Slotalot - What a shame to lose such a talent as you begin your search for the eternal youth machine. Love the innards of your 'execution' with the laced wiring. I haven't seen that since I was starting my electronics apprenticeship quite a few decades ago!

Thanks for the link to the Palette software - it works really well. As a member of a local history group, I have spent hours colourising old photos manually that this software does in seconds. The only drawback I can see is the relatively low resolution pictures that it produces.

I too use Paintshop Pro - Photoshop is just too expensive and there is an annual fee. Paintshop can do everything I need but, as coppinpr says, it has a long history of being a bit unstable when pushed.