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in my earlier reply about the backlash i said it was printed on card it was actual printed on some kind of light weight plastic similar to what estate agent signs are made of you couldn't tear it and it was about 3/4mm thick

I'm nearing completion on my restoration. I built a completely new cabinet of walnut. All parts were cleaned and polished. I'm very happy with the results so far. I'd like to share a few pictures.

Also, at this point I am looking for three parts for this machine. I am looking for a replacement for my front faceplate which was cut and hacked by an operator sometime in the past. I also need the molding that is located just below the faceplate and the light fixture on the top, both of which I am missing completely.

Top job. Lovely cabinet!

I have found a person who can make a new casting of the face plate with the script on it. How much do you think would be a good price for me as the buyer and him as a seller. It's just the plate, not the round prize chute too.

And how good are recast parts? What should my expectations be? Thanks in advance.

That's a bit of a "How long's a piece of string set of questions there"
How much do you think would be a good price ... It's all down to: -

• How much it'd be worth to you.
  What would a genuine part cost or would you be prepared to pay for a genuine one?
  How better is it likely to make the appearance?
  How much will it improve the machine for resell, if you had to?

And how good are recast parts? What should my expectations be?

Don't allow the supplier to dictate the standard to you, you're the customer. If he's any good he should do a decent job.
Assure yourself he's going to take the 6.5% shrinkage into consideration, otherwise you'll end up undersize by that percentage.
Check the thickness of casting he's thinking off (again taking into account the shrinkage). Too thin and it could crack or snap when screwing it on. Ask him if he's planning to make a sand mould for direct casting or a lost wax method? If you don't know these methods Google them, they're not complicated but worth knowing about. Different results can be achieved. I would ask him how he will ensure a surface without bubbles/craters. You don't want to end having to spread filler across it and then paint it to disguise.

Start your conversation with him discussing the standard you want, then ask him how much it'll cost. If he bounces it back to you asking what you'll pay ..... then it really is up to you. I'd start at £40, wait for the sharp intake of breath and be prepared to double it in order not to insult. From then on it's merely a case of who is the best negotiator.
The joy of getting it done cheaply never outlasts the disappointment of looking at something that's not up to scratch.

BP

BP is correct “ the quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten “

Has anyone a wiring diagram for the Merchantman crane?

Does anybody make the background for the Merchantman crane UK?

I haven't a diagram, but mine goes:
Mains lead to MEM-DIX double-pole fuse/isolating switch.
Live out to tilt switch, then to rheostat coil.
Rheostat rider to other end of rheostat coil, leaving enough slack to reach full travel.
Rheostat coil (rider end) to motor terminal. Other motor terminal back to neutral side of fuse/switch.
The cabinet light on mine is wired to the mains-in side of the fuse, and comes on when plugged-in. You may prefer to wire it to the 'out' terminals, so that it too, is fused.

Totally lost me there. Have you a pic of the coin slot side? I think I've something missing at that side. I've got it running if I hold the switch near coin slot down. There seems to be a circular clip above it with nothing in it.
Thanks in advance

Many of these machines have been messed with over the years, motors and coin mechs changed out etc etc. If you could post some photos of your machine showing the motor name plate etc, someone might be able to advise you better.

The top photo shows the coin validator. This is the bit that checks to see if the coin is genuine before letting it fall onto the switch mechanism below. The coin will need to be of a certain weight and size to trip the lower coin mech, (maybe a 50p). What coin is it running on?

The lower coin mech would have been fitted with a mercury tilt switch when it was new. Someone has changed this to a microswitch, If the microswitch is set up correctly, it should still work OK.
Or you could change back to a tilt switch. This is a link to a tilt switch on Ebay. The switch is quite small in diameter, but could be made up to the correct diameter for the clips using insulating tape wrapped around it.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314687432455

I hope this is of help?

I'm still trying to find the front faceplate for my Novelty Merchantman. Anyone have one for sale?

Mostly sorted now just need pic of how locator linkage goes thanks

I think there might be some confusion here?? Unless I misunderstand what you are asking
If by coin locator, you mean the validator (the top bit with the coin slot) - there is NO physical linkage from this to the lower section where the switch is. The coin falls through the validator and into the metal tube, eventually hitting the lever at the bottom of the tube and setting the machine to run. This is why the coin needs to be big and heavy, like a 50p coin. What coin are you using?
I have done a simple sketch that might help.

My mistake linkage to gib locator

No problem. Easy to get mixed up when trying to sort things at a distance. Sorry I cant help with the linkage, but hope I have managed to help a little along the way.

Yes, great help thanks.

Can anybody take pics of the motor side showing the set up for the crane gib set locator?
Thanks