General vintage slot machine related topics.
youngerap
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Re: Novomat Restoration

Postby youngerap » Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:11 pm

Just a quick update on my Novamat. When I vastly overpaid for it :oops: it was a mess; dirty, damp, dreadful red textured paint case with blue-green door furniture - painted on with a roller, I think.

Anyhow, it became the subject of my one and only experiment with soda blasting and finally looks like this:
DSCF2177 - 2.jpg
I do not have the metal license plate, so I substituted that with a picture of my granddaughters. I also based the colour scheme on that from my eldest granddaughter's bicycle. I know the lettering should be polished aluminium, but I quite like it as it is and, if push comes to shove, I might paint the letters white. I shall see if the fancy grows on me.

Well, the mechanism has been degreased, cleaned and re-lubricated as appropriate (and very sparingly - I kept saying to myself 'if you can see the oil, you have used too much'. Luckily, I am short-sighted). The reels were removed, cleaned and the lovely bearings relubricated. The reel strips were replaced. Having read of the potential for harm from other threads, I absolutely left the payout slides alone (however, I think I did see a crack in one of the upper slides. It does not appear to affect the payouts, so this is a task for another time). Put the whole lot back together again and started to play.

In another thread, I mentioned that I had a couple of problems with the payout and with the skill stop. Not much I can do with the skill stop, I fear. the lever actuated by the button is too short to reach the reel 1 brake lever, so it will never be able to lift off the reel brake.
DSCF2183.JPG
The payment problems are related to the triggering of 2d payouts. The original award card indicates that 2d will be paid when the third reel (rightmost) lands on 2, 3 or 4. It does not, however, mention that, if either of the other reels has a value of 5 or 6, the payout lever (see photo below) cannot be actuated. The respective lugs just do not allow the lever to be moved. Where the other two reels each hold a value of less than five, however, the 2d should be triggered. Sometimes this happens, but mostly it does not. The lever is moved, but by just a tiny bit too little to trigger the payout. It looks as though this is perhaps due to wear on the wheel and the lever, but I cannot find any means of adjusting the movement to adjust for this wear. !PUZZLED! If anyone could give some advice as to how such an adjustment can be made it would be gratefully received. Otherwise, I will keep it as it is until I can source some new parts. It is not perfect, but it will do! !!THUMBSX2!!
DSCF2180.JPG
Now, if the keys turn up for the locks, I will be a happy chappy and the machine can be wall mounted indoors. In the meantime, it is a good excuse to wander out to the workshop.... !!CHEERS!!

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badpenny
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Re: Novomat Restoration

Postby badpenny » Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:33 pm

I've always understood that all symbols on the winning line must have a red bar through them for a win. Perhaps the children are in the wrong order eh?

To get the button to actuate the first reel it's usual to have to lengthen the trip across the gap between the rocker axle and the brake (that was clumsy jargon .... didn't even make sense to me)
On my first ever GW bandit I got the button working by squeezing a Bulldog Clip on the end to bridge the gap.

Nowadays a mere 43 years later I have progressed to soldering an extension on. I guess in another 43 years I'll be lasering on a 3D printed replicant.

youngerap
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Re: Novomat Restoration

Postby youngerap » Tue Jul 09, 2013 8:21 am

Hi, BP.
The kids are not on the actual reels. That would be silly as they would just get dizzy and throw up. :NBG:

Thanks for the information about the red line - I think that will enable me to alter the award card appropriately as regards the first two reels having values of 5 and 6, as I do not recall any numbers above 4 having that red line.

I shall have a go at soldering an extension on to the rocker axle tab (although I do like the bulldog clip solution - much simpler). Might also consider the soldering iron as a potential solution to the other 2d payout problem, too.

Cheers,
Alan

tazmantic
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:45 pm

Re: Novomat Restoration

Postby tazmantic » Mon Jul 15, 2013 9:20 pm

Hi youngerap,
My Tivoli has the same reel strips as a Novomat and even on the award card it says 'Novomat' and, as BP said, the first 2 reels need to have a red line through them for a pay out of 2d ( --2 --3 --4), so if there is a 5 or 6 it won't pay out, and my Princess had the same issue of not always paying out the right amount. I also suspect wear, so I got over that for the time being by putting tape 'round the roller :D (think there is a pic on my Princess topic).

As for the first reel skill stop/respin, do you know what yours is meant to do? !PUZZLED! My Primus respins the first reel; my Tivoli just stops the brake finger from stopping the first reel, but on the video on here it seems to just advance the first reel :o Looking at your pic, it seems to have the spring on the bar like my Tivoli, so maybe the end of the spring that pushes on the first reel brake finger has broken off !PUZZLED! (3rd pic below), because my Primus with the respin has extra mechanism..........

Does any of this make sense? !PUZZLED! :!?!:
Primus 22.jpg
Primus 11.jpg
photo2.jpg

youngerap
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Re: Novomat Restoration

Postby youngerap » Mon Jul 15, 2013 9:50 pm

Hi, Taz.
Great minds! I used a bit of masking tape which seemed to help the 2d payout problem. You (and BP) are quite right in that the payouts occur when the red lines are all present, but not where one of the values is 5 or 6. I then removed the tape and, bizarrely, for a while the 2d payouts continued. Then, after standing for 24 hours, it went back to intermittent payout and then no payout. :dammit:

The skill stop button should simply lift the first wheel brake. I don't know whether the spring has broken or, indeed, if it was ever there. For the time being, I have put this issue to one side. I like BP's suggestion of soldering a wire on, but am a bit worried about applying too much heat to this old crappy metal (that I really like so much!). I can just see it melting away in front of me. :!: I might try the bulldog clip.....

I just wish my son would have a chat with his tame locksmith. I am waiting for confirmation that he has found the blanks to the original locks, so that I can reinstall them and get the machine out of the workshop. I have a Mills Hi-Top waiting to go in. If he cannot find the blanks, I will use the EVVA locks that I bought a while back. That will require cutting and welding of the clasp, so I am trying to be patient....

How did you get on with the reel strips? Did they go on and fit okay?

Cheers,

Alan

tazmantic
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Re: Novomat Restoration

Postby tazmantic » Mon Jul 15, 2013 9:58 pm

Well, I've got very little experience, but if you need any pics. :D
I tried to find blanks for my locks but no luck. :(
As for the reels, I ended up just printing them on 2 sheets of A4 then sticking them on. :D
Not the best, but through the glass they look quite good. :D

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pennymachines
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Re: Novomat Restoration

Postby pennymachines » Tue Mar 17, 2020 4:19 pm

The attached PDF was originally published in January 2002 on www.automatenarchiv.de. I linked to it earlier in this topic, but that website now redirects to www.giftsandtoysforboys.com which no longer seems to have the file. I found it again by searching the Wayback Machine and have hosted it here, together with an attempted translation, because it's a useful guide. I couldn't find Detlev Reineke's contact details, so hope he's OK with this.
Novomat-English.pdf
(1004.47 KiB) Downloaded 37 times
Novomat-German.pdf
(985.91 KiB) Downloaded 25 times

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badpenny
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Re: Novomat Restoration

Postby badpenny » Tue Mar 17, 2020 8:54 pm

That was no mean feat Mr P.
Which language do you dream in?

BP :o

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treefrog
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Re: Novomat Restoration

Postby treefrog » Tue Mar 17, 2020 9:34 pm

It’s funny, I was going to capture a blog of info on my experiences of Gunter Wulff machines, especially around the areas that have caused me most grief. For example the clock, which really does resemble a proper clock with coil spring and various gears and the governor or fan.

I have yet to completely strip one of these or at least to the point in dealing with the spring which I am in fear of. A common issue with clock springs is to over wind them and leave them in that state for extended periods of time.

I recall being given a clock by my father which had two springs, one for clock operation and one for the chimes which had been turned off for many years and left fully wound to the limit. Not knowing this I wound the clock up and them the chimes spring, on literally touching the winder, the spring broke and I found the key spinning with huge force almost breaking my thumb. I took it to a clockmaker who explained it is a common issue where people leave them overwound and the spring weakens under stress waiting to explode.

So on Beromat machines, I have had many frozen mechanisms stuck in a corroded state for many years and with the nightmare in dealing with the dodgy metal, I had two machine frozen with the clocks fully wound. The first one I touched, after hours soaking in lubricant and trying to free the gears then have the spring explode, literally with parts of high tensile steel spinning past my ear. Somehow my hand avoided serious damage. The next clock I worked on I wrapped cloth around it while working on the gears.... !OMFG!

One of many experiences on these machines.....

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badpenny
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Re: Novomat Restoration

Postby badpenny » Tue Mar 17, 2020 10:20 pm

I've been lucky with the clocks, I have had a couple apart but nothing so dramatic as that.
I tend to put them back on 15 second play as most of them have had the weights on the governor wired back which takes the game down to about 10 seconds.

I've done a fair bit of preservation on delaminating Mezak, the main problem of pot metal. I've got one at the moment which is 60 years old and the Mezak looks like it was cast last week, brand spanking new it looks!
However when it goes it goes quickly and can't be ignored.
Some of the common quirky snags I've come across are ...

The handle not returning until the cycle ends and then suddenly slamming back up
Pay outs all to cock because - Of operator fiddling
- Control rod not fully returning so it pays 2 every play regardless
- Control rod too stiff so it doesn't move enough and pays short
- Control rod too loose so it overruns and pays too much.
The boggerin' pay out control rod can be a proper sod!
- The different varieties of buttons on the front and their operations "Brake" "Re Start" etc. Most of them have linkages removed.

I like them and their English conversions, although Mezak is the Achilles heel, they really are precision machines.


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