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Thanks joerg_gm, you've been very helpful, that's kind of you.
Naturally you've given a whole bundle of more questions, but at the same time you've given us the leads to search for the answers. Which is always the best way to learn.
One question I'd like to ask though, because you send the file over to companies like joerg_gm does that mean there's no need to print your own version as presumably they will make one in order to produce the mould they'll cast from?
Or do you print one off at home in order to make sure it'll work anyway?

BP

If you're using online-services as described above, you don't have to print the wax-model or mould by yourself. You simply upload the 3D-model in a certain file format (depends on the company). They'll do the rest (printing the wax-model, creating the casting-mould, cast in brass (or whatever you need) and polishing the casted object.

Brass-casted objects are very expensive at those online-services, so I test my created 3d-models with my own printer, to be sure it will work.





Here is another example I did some time ago (test-model done with a PLA-printer):

As I suspected.
I think the game has suddenly changed up a gear.

A terrific tool for getting out of trouble, especially in the self satisfaction stakes!
I also guess it gives us something else to peer at closely when buying.

Thanks for your openness joerg_gm

BP

Joerg_gm: an excellent explanation of the resin process, I can see that your skill at the 3D modelling stage is very good.

joerg_gm wrote:Looks great. Which kind of resin did you use for that?

I use the water washable photopolymer resin but have also used the alcohol washable resin which is much cheaper to buy.

Badpenny: the alcohol method is not what you may think !! it is used for 'cleaning' the 3D print prior to curing it with UV light.

3D resin printing can be a bit messy and also smelly, but well worth the effort, the finish is great when compared to the filament 3D print process.

arrgee wrote: ↑Tue Oct 13, 2020 1:32 pm I use the water washable photopolymer resin

That's also the resin I'm working with. I like the easy handling and cleaning and it doesn't stink quite as badly as the normal one.
Sometimes I have problems with printing objects with flat surfaces. The lower surfaces are sometimes printed a little distorted, but I'm still trying and testing with this new printing method.
Joerg

Absolutely fascinating, I often forget we are in 2020 as most of my time is spent restoring 1950s jukeboxes. What a remarkable way to reproduce missing parts.

Yes, some amazing work there.
Did you start by 3D scanning/imaging the original, or does the modelling have to be created from scratch in 3D Max?

If the 3D-Model can be created using simple geometric shapes, then rebuilding is much easier than 3D scanning. With 3D scanning, you usually have to invest a lot of time in cleaning and reworking the scanned 3D-mesh. This is only worthwhile with very complex structures.
I build each model in 3D Max with the help of reference pictures and simple geometric objects.

So is the next challenge to make a whole Wonders machine part by part

I would never be able to use the software as technically inept

treefrog wrote:So is the next challenge to make a whole Wonders machine part by part

Now that is a challenge tf !

Although on a serious note I have considered printing a scaled down small working model of a basic allwin - this would take some considerable time though.

treefrog wrote:I would never be able to use the software as technically inept

Judging by the numerous bandit rebuilds you have done, I seriously doubt that, as with any skill it's just a matter of getting used to and familiar with the right tools for the job.

treefrog wrote: ↑Tue Mar 02, 2021 2:00 pm I would never be able to use the software as technically inept

But but but... didn't you used to work in IT?

arrgee wrote: ↑Tue Mar 02, 2021 12:14 pm ...could be used as a basis for casting one in metal.

I guess the trick would be to upscale slightly to allow for casting shrinkage. Nice work.

With the improvements in resins in the last two years the making of strong internal slot parts is what interests me. The ability to make broken or missing parts that are simply no longer available anywhere or to make and use parts while waiting perhaps years to find a real one really appeals. Even quite common parts that are often hard to find such as coin slides (especially German ones) jackpot and gold award activators. Perhaps the casting of parts from 3D made moulds might be the best way to go?

If the industry brought out 3D filaments made of wax instead of plastics.
Then it would be ideal for doing "lost wax casting".

BP

That's a point. Surely somebody already thought of this?
It would need a much lower temperature setting on the printer.

coppinpr wrote:With the improvements in resins in the last two years the making of strong internal slot parts is what interests me.

Then the next phase of 3D printing will probably interest you Paul.... 3D metal printing. Still in its infancy with regards to hobbyists, but I am sure it will not be long before we see small units for home use. The metal, which can be steel, stainless steel, copper, etc goes through a 3 phase process:



Not sure how strong the printed metal item is, or whether it will withstand the stresses that a normal metal object would, as I said, in its infancy but an interesting development. Some of the software that converts the 3D design will also scale up the object automatically to allow for thermal properties of metal shrinkage when cooling.

badpenny wrote: ↑Wed Mar 03, 2021 2:31 pm If the industry brought out 3D filaments made of wax instead of plastics.
Then it would be ideal for doing "lost wax casting".

There are some filaments (Polymaker PolyCast) and resins (PowerCast) for printing wax models with 3D printers.

joerg_gm wrote: ↑Sat Mar 06, 2021 1:41 pm

badpenny wrote: ↑Wed Mar 03, 2021 2:31 pm If the industry brought out 3D filaments made of wax instead of plastics.
Then it would be ideal for doing "lost wax casting".

There are some filaments (Polymaker PolyCast) and resins (PowerCast) for printing wax models with 3D printers.

Typical for me that.
I once spent a fortnight designing how to fry food with water. Before I realised I'd just reinvented the pressure cooker.

Only this week I got excited when I worked out that fitting a focusable, Electro Magnet Impulse generator to the front of an emergency vehicle could paralyse a fleeing scrote's vehicle with immediate affect. Thus John Law would be able to feel their collar without chasing them through a town centre at 80 mph until they plant it through Tesco's. Things were looking hopeful until I learnt that The Soda Springs, Idaho Sherriff's Office gave up on the idea 10 years ago after Detroit started fitting electronic, drive by wire technology in their cars to control braking and steering as well as engine management. It was viewed that turning off their steering and brakes as well as their engine could be deemed as un-sportsman like in the extreme.

Oh well, never mind, back to my idea for putting rice through a popcorn maker as I think it might make a decent breakfast cereal. I'd call it Crackle, Pap and Snop.

BP

I have been searching for some good reel tins for ages and finally got some last month. Before that I had been trying to find someone with the CAD skills I don't have to do a drawing of some reel tins so I can print some. I finally found "the person" and this is what came out. I am really pleased with the result.

I finally found a machine that needed new reels, so here are my first 3D printed reels in place. They work well but need a little adjustment for Mk2 versions....