3D-printed slot machine miniatures

[joerg_gm]

Looks great. Which kind of resin did you use for that?

[badpenny]

This is an interesting thread.
We've briefly touched on this subject a few times now without any real substance.

Then suddenly we have acceptable results. Well done those who've dabbled and succeeded.
We have a commonality in brand name and materials used. I'd only heard of filaments and not resin.
Can anyone explain the difference and costs?
Are there tales of success versus failures?
Software options?
Lessons learnt?
Computing resources needed to drive these beasts?
Any buyers' remorse?

Eager to learn
BP

[joerg_gm]

SLA-3D-printers are not expensive. The Elegoo Mars Pro is available for around $250.

I needed the printer for a (missing) payout-cup. On an old german machine the payout-cup was missing, but some traces were still there:

Of course the first step is to create the 3D-model. There are a lot of tools on the market to create such models. I'm using an old version of 3D Max, but there are also free tools like Blender. Here are some pictures of the modeling process:

After that you can load the model into the slicing-software of the printer (in my case Chitubox). You have to add some support-structures (can be done automatically):

Then upload the result via USB-stick to the printer and start printing. After some hours (depends on the height of the model, because the model is created layer by layer) the model is ready for curing in uv light and removing the supports:

Of course, a plastic model does not fit for such a machine, but with the SLA-printed cup you can test the 3D model.
Now you have two choices:
1) You can print the model with a Wax-resin like Power-Cast Burn and create your own Casting mold for brass casting. See this Youtube-video: or
2) use an online-service like i.Materialise.com or shapeways.

I send my 3D-model to i.Materialise.com and this is what they send back:

Now I just have to solder the payout-cup to the base plate.

I think the most important part of the process is to create a clean and flawless 3D model. You have to pay attention to a few things, such as a minimum wall thickness etc ...

[bryans fan]

[badpenny]

Thanks joerg_gm, you've been very helpful, that's kind of you.
Naturally you've given a whole bundle of more questions, but at the same time you've given us the leads to search for the answers. Which is always the best way to learn.
One question I'd like to ask though, because you send the file over to companies like joerg_gm does that mean there's no need to print your own version as presumably they will make one in order to produce the mould they'll cast from?
Or do you print one off at home in order to make sure it'll work anyway?

BP

[joerg_gm]

If you're using online-services as described above, you don't have to print the wax-model or mould by yourself. You simply upload the 3D-model in a certain file format (depends on the company). They'll do the rest (printing the wax-model, creating the casting-mould, cast in brass (or whatever you need) and polishing the casted object.

Brass-casted objects are very expensive at those online-services, so I test my created 3d-models with my own printer, to be sure it will work.

Here is another example I did some time ago (test-model done with a PLA-printer):

[badpenny]

As I suspected.
I think the game has suddenly changed up a gear.

A terrific tool for getting out of trouble, especially in the self satisfaction stakes!
I also guess it gives us something else to peer at closely when buying.

Thanks for your openness joerg_gm

BP

[arrgee]

Joerg_gm: an excellent explanation of the resin process, I can see that your skill at the 3D modelling stage is very good.

Looks great. Which kind of resin did you use for that?

I use the water washable photopolymer resin but have also used the alcohol washable resin which is much cheaper to buy.

Badpenny: the alcohol method is not what you may think !! it is used for 'cleaning' the 3D print prior to curing it with UV light.

3D resin printing can be a bit messy and also smelly, but well worth the effort, the finish is great when compared to the filament 3D print process.

[joerg_gm]

I use the water washable photopolymer resin

That's also the resin I'm working with. I like the easy handling and cleaning and it doesn't stink quite as badly as the normal one.
Sometimes I have problems with printing objects with flat surfaces. The lower surfaces are sometimes printed a little distorted, but I'm still trying and testing with this new printing method.
Joerg

[radiochrissie]

Absolutely fascinating, I often forget we are in 2020 as most of my time is spent restoring 1950s jukeboxes. What a remarkable way to reproduce missing parts.