How to replace and re-cut a plastic backflash

[widget2k4]

I have just had a good look at it and it is only the top 4 cups that are damaged, but I must say down where the ball gets hit by the hammer has worn through the plastic and is just starting to damage the back picture so it may be a case of replacing the plastic after all.

Is it this I need? I only see 1mm or 2mm. It's free postage if you buy 2 sheets so it's not that bad.
http://www.artstore.co.uk/clear-styrolu ... 297-p-7700

Sorry, I found the one you mentioned.

I managed to find the same stuff on eBay so I ordered some. Any good tips on what to use for the holes?

[badpenny]

Any good tips on what to use for the holes?

I always use holes.

[widget2k4]

Never thought of that BP

Before I drive on and cause some damage, can anyone advise how these round bits come off as they appear to be stuck.
You can see the damage on the back flash where the ball has eaten through the plastic.

I don't normally complain about screwing
but removing them 24 cups involves a lot of it.

[badpenny]

Personally I wouldn't have worried about that, it's part of its history and story.

If it was worse and coming loose I'd probably get hold of a sheet of acetate (the sort that was used on overhead projectors) and trim a length to stick over it.

The "Return it to Showroom Condition" methodology is something I've never suffered from, however each to their own.
BP

[widget2k4]

I have got some acetate sheets - the reason behind it is the ball is getting stuck in the cups as the back plastic is cracking around the cups, making it unplayable, so I may as well replace the lot in one go. I just don't want to cause damage taking them round things out as I don't see how they fasten on?

[pennymachines]

When you remove the flash they will come with it because they're crimped against the back of it. You have to gently bend the crimping just enough to free them.
Cutting the plastic - culled from a previous post:

I would advise cutting the plastic oversize so that its edges are held securely behind the wooden frame... Don't try hammering pins through the plastic because it's liable to split and splinter. Always pre-drill the holes. This applies to cutting as well - mark the shape to cut and drill out the corners before inserting a blade. This prevents over-cutting and splitting beyond the intended cut-line.

[widget2k4]

Thanks PM
I have ordered a hole cutting kit to see if that will work?

[wembleylion]

I hate using Acrylic sheet as it cracks and splits at the first touch of a saw or drill; even if I use a pair of wood battens to sandwich it whilst cutting it still sometimes cracks a short while afterwards; very long cuts I find are impossible to make with a hand saw.
I prefer to use polycarbonate sheet because it is far more pliable, doesn't split or crack easily and is therefore much easier to work with; it can, with the right tooling, be folded cold or hot moulded to almost any shape.
Polycarbonate is available on eBay with thicknesses from ½ mm up and in a range of sheet sizes. There are two clear grades 9030 (standard) and Exell D (high security); it is sometimes available in a small range of colours.

John

[JC]

My advice would be to remove all the gubbins from the playfield, remove the backflash and take it to a print shop and get it laminated. The screw holes can then be pierced with something like a nail with a ground point - larger holes can be punched with leather punches (if you have them) or carefully cut with a craft knife.

[widget2k4]

JC that is a fantastic idea, wish I had thought of that. If I don't succeed with this acetate and leather punch that's exactly what I am going to do.
In fact I might just do it anyway to save a lot of hassle.