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Re: New Bryans Backflash ball release hole

Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 8:10 pm
by raj
I would not advocate gluing the flash for one very good reason. The solvents in most glues will dissolve either the backing layer and possibly the colour layer. I would follow pennymachines' advice. I used a sharp flat wood bit to cut the hole on a very slow drill, having tried a hole punch, which simply split the plastic.

Re: New Bryans Backflash ball release hole

Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 9:58 pm
by alan57
!!THUMBSX2!! Thanks for the information.

fit new backflash etc etc

Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 11:58 am
by m_ick
Topic merged - Site Admin.

Hi all,

I'm attempting to make one decent machine (Whales - Win a Kit-Kat) from a complete door and a "butchered" complete machine.

I guess I have all the bits to finish-up with one complete machine but WHERE TO START!

I am currently working on a new backflash, but how do I position it on the existing fixing holes and what is the best method of cutting the holes for ball release/gallery.

Any advice will be much appreciated and let me know if anyone needs the file of the backflash when it's done.

Thanks in advance. M_ick

Re: fit new backflash etc etc

Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 12:28 pm
by badpenny
Coincidently we were talking about this very thing less than a month ago .... (now merged above - Site Admin.)

BP

Re: fit new backflash etc etc

Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 4:25 pm
by gameswat
I like to use a dremel style sanding wheel to smooth out the allwin ball entry/release holes. Either used in a Dremel or just in a standard hand drill. The sanding wheels are slightly smaller than what's needed so after drilling a pilot hole from the back of the artwork you can clean up and make sure there is no lip. Looks pro.

Re: fit new backflash etc etc

Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 12:03 pm
by pennymachines
m_ick wrote:how do I position it on the existing fixing holes
Assuming you're starting with clear plastic - hold it in place while you mark up the holes with a non-permanent marker pen. Otherwise, use a piece of tracing paper.
m_ick wrote:let me know if anyone needs the file of the backflash when it's done.
I'm sure it will prove useful if you upload it to Resources.

B M Co. backflash help

Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 11:05 am
by pennymad
Topic moved & merged - Site Admin.

Hi everyone I'm currently restoring a large case B M Co. 24 cup allwin. I need a new backflash. It's red and a thinnish plastic like material but I don't know where I could get one from. I have brought some red card close to the colour and was going to have a play with getting one laminated and one sprayed with clear lacquer as a trial and error. I hope someone can help and give some advise please
Regards Dave.

Re: B m & co backflash help

Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 12:20 pm
by badpenny
Hi Dave, have you tried searching "backflash" or "back flash" in the Resources section of the forum?

Re: B m & co backflash help

Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 5:18 pm
by pennymad
I haven't done yet as I'm relatively new so getting used to how it all works, will have a look now thanks

Re: B m & co backflash help

Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 6:07 pm
by badpenny
I'm not promising you'll find what you need, I know there a few in there but I don't go out of my way for allwins.
You might need someone who is into BMCo and can photo one.
But it's worth a look. :cool:

Re: B m & co backflash help

Posted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 6:40 pm
by gm
Best place I know for thinnish coloured plastic is Fred Aldous of Manchester. I bought a yellow and red A1 sheet for around a fiver each last year and delivery was excellent. Give it a go although you may not get the exact match but I was well pleased and have enough over to replace another backflash should another restoration project come my way.
http://www.fredaldous.co.uk/ !!THUMBSX2!!

Re: B m & co backflash help

Posted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 8:16 pm
by pennymad
Thanks for the help GM. I'll take a look as that. It sounds like what I need! How did you successfully cut out the holes for the cups etc?

Re: B m & co backflash help

Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 10:51 am
by gm
To cut the holes I've always used a proper surgical scalpel which I find far better than these craft knives. Mine is made by Swann Morton and uses 10A blades. You'll find them via Google and they are very sharp. The good thing about this material is that it's thin enough to shine a torch through which makes cutting the holes easier and a small file smooths the edges for a good job. Main thing is, take your time !
My friend told me to send you this link to Fred Aldous which I used for a yellow sheet but you've probably already found it by now ! Good Luck . !!THUMBSX2!!

http://www.fredaldous.co.uk/poly-prop-s ... ellow.html