The 5 x original vertical spokes were all cut short and one snapped, so these needed replacing. I went to my cake tin storage area, I collect these usually for use as cashboxes, and found the correct gauge tin in decent patinated condition. In my scrap bins I found a rectangular brass tube section that was exactly the right inner width I needed. Then found some alloy U channel that was slightly larger inner width than the brass, just enough space to allow me to use the two pieces as a simple forming stamp when I place a flat piece of tin between both then clamped in a vice (#8). I glued the flat tin piece centrally to the brass at either end with a dab of glue so it wouldn't move. This same brass forming tool also came in handy for soldering the original horizontal struts to the new vertical spokes. With a 90 degree angle this made sure everything was perfectly true. I cut a small 45 degree chamfer on the brass corner so that my solder joints would not attach to the brass jig (#9). Then came the tough job of making the rims. The factory had steel molds and presses to mass produce these while I had nothing.........I found some curved black alloy sheet in my scrap, was a much smaller diameter than I needed but the correct gauge for forming the rolled lip that holds the reel strip in place. I gently stretched the alloy out until I had the correct diameter to match the original reel size. I first tried taping a piece of flat tin to the inside edge of the alloy former and then gently rolling the tin over to form the lip. While this did work it left a partially buckled edge, as the inner edge contracts while the outer edge stretches. So then tried a different method. I clamped pre-cut flat sheet tin pieces to a steel ruler that was the correct inner gauge I needed for the rolled lip. Using a wood scrap I slowly slid back and forth forming the tin over the ruler edge which created the rolled lip channel needed (#10). I then lubed the curved alloy former and slowly slide the tin over it , this stretched the flat into a curved rim section with no wrinkles at all! (#11) Did take about five goes on and off the former to fully take the circumference needed. Originally the rims were made of two curved pieces of tin soldered to make each rim. But I found that this was impossible with my method as the tin was just so thin that once you'd gotten just over half way on there was too much friction and the tin would crush before going any further onto the former. So instead I decided to halve the lengths, now each of my rims is made of four tin pieces soldered together (#12).
Once the eight rim sections were formed I needed to solder them together in an exact way and to the correct diameter, and then they needed to mount perfectly with all the spokes and struts, so I would need a jig of some kind? I found some plywood that was just the right thickness. The plywood thickness was important because with the finished rims in place it left a slight overrun and that allowed me to bend the inner 90 degree flange needed. The flange gives added stiffness and a place for the horizontal spokes to attach to. After basically cutting it to the right size on a bandsaw I found a scrap brass boss with mounting holes and an inner shaft hole with grub screw in place. By centrally attaching this to my plywood I could then install an inner adjustable steel shaft that would locate the five armed cast iron attaching bracket that mounts the tin reel to the mechanism shaft. From that I could base all my locations before soldering to make sure everything was true. Once I'd mounted the brass boss I ran it in my lathe so I could cut the plywood down slightly until it was dead true to the boss and the correct diameter. I then measured out the five spoke positions around the plywood surface and drew them in place (#13). To begin with I placed two of the eight rim sections on my black alloy former so I could solder them together, repeating with the other six sections (#14). I now had 4 x half rim sections. Then I used the plywood circular jig to measure these pieces and cut them to equal sizes with small butting joints. To join these halves into a whole, again I used the black alloy former to solder the joints but also clamped them between two wooden boards to keep everything as flat as possible (#15). Once I had completed the two rims I could then position them onto the plywood jig and solder everything into place (#16,17,18). The finished reel is very close to true, not perfect but since this was being paid for by a customer I had to try and keep the process as basic as possible but good enough to work well. It's superior to the restored original reel I copied measurements from. That one was a little twisted and bent to begin with and once the tin stretches it's impossible to unstretch, so you get some slight warping (#19,20,21).