Newby needs help with 'Honest Joe'

[pennymachines]

If a game offers more than 1D as a prize, the ball return may be considered too generous. Bryans allwins allow the operator to make adjustments to the skill required to win and the amounts paid, so it makes sense to offer a no ball return option. Some locations played strictly by the "amusement only" rules and operated games awarding either a returned coin or a free play for winning, with no possibility of monetary gain. An allwin with single penny payout and the ball return disabled would suit such a location.

Going from memory alone, I think the Honest Joe is a single penny payout with ball return. The 24 cup layout makes it generous enough on this scheme.

According to the dimensions, the slider plate is 1/8" thick, then the channel milled to about half the thickness of a coin (about .035"). That leaves the hole itself in the slider about 1 1/2 coin thicknesses deep (about 0.09"). So yours must be a a 2 coin payout, right?

Yes, the one I measured is a 2 coin slide, but I think you need a 1 coin version. The milled out part is only on the left side of the hole (working from my photo). The other edge of the hole is two (unworn) pennies deep (the thickness of the slide) - or a penny deep in the case of your 1 coin slide. During play, the correct number of coins for a payout are already seated within the hole in the slide. When the knob is turned for a payout, the slide moves towards the hole in the hopper cradle, allowing the coin(s) to drop out. As the slide moves beneath the coins in the hopper, the lower edge of the hopper retains the next coin in the stack. The milled-out edge of the slide prevents it from catching the edge of this coin if the coin(s) beneath are a bit thin. When the knob is released, the slide is reloaded as it returns to its resting position.

[rattitude]

Hey there!

I finally finished my payout mechanism for this machine (see Homemade Allwin payout mechanism - Site Admin). 15 minutes here, a few minutes there... With all the variation in penny thickness ranging over 70 years in age, plus the 1 coin payout design, it had to be milled to very tight tolerances. But, it works like a charm. I put a few hundred pennies through it and the payouts were smooth with no jams. Fun, fun project! Plus, it gave me an excuse to buy a cross slide vise for my drill press. Woohoo!

So, I'm looking for advice on the protective playfield covering. Any materials to recommend for this?

As always, thanks!

[pennymachines]

Congratulations and well done for bringing new life to another old game.

Some UK (and presumably US) garden centres sell flexible transparent plastic for constructing cloches, poly-tunnels etc. It comes on a roll in two thicknesses and offers the advantage of UV protecting your paperwork (with a very slight blue tint - unnoticeable in use). I've used both gauges but had to resort to longer split pins when remounting the runners over the thick stuff.

[john t peterson]

My goodness, Mr. Rattitude, what marvelous work! If you need another career as an allwin restorer, you're already on the road to success. Well done, Sir; well done indeed!

J Peterson
Your American admirer

[rattitude]

My goodness, Mr. Rattitude, what marvelous work! If you need another career as an allwin restorer, you're already on the road to success. Well done, Sir; well done indeed!

J Peterson
Your American admirer

From one American to another, thank you. I'm flattered.

[rattitude]

Some UK (and presumably US) garden centres sell flexible transparent plastic for constructing cloches, poly-tunnels etc. It comes on a roll in two thicknesses and offers the advantage of UV protecting your paperwork (with a very slight blue tint - unnoticeable in use).

Thanks for the resource info.
This leads to another question.
The stuff that's covering the backflash now is cut to the edges of the wooden frame and badly curled up. It was also tacked down in each corner (through the artwork! ). I'm guessing this was a shoddy attempt by a former owner at restoration.
Is this supposed to be the way the protective cover is attached, or should it be oversized and pinned between 2 layers of wood around the perimeter?

As always, thanks!

[rattitude]

And another question, if you all would be so kind...
The bumper/plunger thingy that hits the ball-- is it supposed to be just steel on the tip, or should it have a layer of brass, rubber, or something else?
Thanks!

[coin-op]

The plunger is just made of steel. However, on the inside face of the hammer cover (left side with the hole for the hammer head), there should be a piece of rubber held in place to dampen the impact of the hammer hitting the hammer cover. This rubber can sometimes fall out or erode. If it's in place and okay, the hammer head, when in the rest position should be just about flush with the hole it sits in.

[slotalot]

Hi Rattitude
have you seen the Oliver Whales Spares List?
It will give you some idea of what a set of allwin parts look like

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=814

[pennymachines]

The stuff that's covering the backflash now is cut to the edges of the wooden frame and badly curled up. It was also tacked down in each corner (through the artwork! ). I'm guessing this was a shoddy attempt by a former owner at restoration.
Is this supposed to be the way the protective cover is attached, or should it be oversized and pinned between 2 layers of wood around the perimeter?

I would advise cutting the plastic oversize so that its edges are held securely behind the wooden frame. The original plastics are actually pinned at the corners by flat-headed tacks. There's one top left, two top right over the instruction card, two bottom left over the payout card and one bottom right, hidden by the striker box. Don't try hammering pins through the plastic because it's liable to split and splinter. Always pre-drill the holes. This applies to cutting as well - mark the shape to cut and drill out the corners before inserting a blade. This prevents over-cutting and splitting beyond the intended cut-line.

[rattitude]

("Newby needs help with 'Honest Joe'" topic merged with "Honest Joe restoration finally done!" - Site Admin.)

It's Honest Joe!
24 winning cups, and 1 losing cup-- you can't lose (or can you? I wonder...).

Life is in another cycle of hectic fun, leaving me little time to work on my myriad of restorations, but I forced the issue. I went into a frenzy on Honest Joe this past weekend and played hooky from work on Monday to finish it up.

It's seems like forever since I got the mechanics working by making my own hinges and payout mechanism.

The results are below. I spent 2 solid evenings lovingly painting/touching up the playfield artwork. They'll never know. And who would've thought there was (mostly) shiny chrome under all that black and dark gray, rough crust? The black wood required a complete redo, revealing quartersawn oak. Yummy.

My wife likes this one so much that she's extended an invitation to mount it in the upstairs living room rather than the gameroom/basement. The wonders never cease!

Now... maybe I can get back to work on that 50ft Woman pachinko the '47 console slot machine restorations.

[slotalot]

[badpenny]

A truly superb job, well done, you must feel well happy with that. Going back over your previous posts and making the comparison of before and after really shows the extent of your efforts..... (posh words for "the job's a good 'un!!)

Two questions that aren't related to this machine: -
1) Games room basement ???????????

2) 50ft Woman pachinko ??????


.............. we need evidence, without pictures no such things exist, except perhaps in the world of our American Playboy.