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I don't think the £1,000 price is for real. It's an attempt to get you to call the number or visit the website shown in the second photo so the seller can avoid Ebay costs.

treefrog wrote: ↑Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:04 amcannot see the one PM points to in the museum....

The image is too small for the new Museum...

Dealt with this seller few years back, very simple transaction on a large parcel of bandits.

As in the trade he comes across all manner of less common items...................lucky chap!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1930-s-1940- ... SwZR9acrFp

I have also made contact, but not bought as prices were unrealistic to me. Being in the trade he knows value and then adds very handsome profit I guess... Cannot blame them, but as with all people who try, I guess why not if you get a bite.....

Had a Bolands bandit recently for sale and has a pile of Allwins not for sale. Maybe from the same source as the current lot as they were on 2p like one of the other Allwins currently listed.

Anyway Mr PM a better picture for the museum......that other one you showed has a serious bling issue

Aristo, did you buy the machines, anything nice?

Last time I contacted him was to advise a few errors on his listing on an old US soda machine he had listed on ebay maybe a year back or so.

As I said, I bought the parcel of bandits a few years back, 15-20 machines or so. They were mostly Aristocrats, rough looking but all complete & though rough to look at, most had original fruit reels & original award cards in great condition. He had another parcel of lightups & hitops he sold to someone else.

Have spoken to him a few times since when he's offered other items for sale. Very easy going to talk to, but as in the trade you're unlikely to get a bargain but he was very fair when we dealt on the parcel of bandits.

I suspect he sometimes gets offered a number of vintage items in lieu of an outstanding trade invoice......!

Is it just me or does that Boland bandit front above almost look like a deliberate faux tortoiseshell effect? Though I imagine it was purely accidental and actually the over abuse of a heat gun when removing old paint!?

I also fell for the artful mottling which appears on closer inspection to be the work of a laminate-stripping heat gun!
Anyway, as a classic Tom Boland conversion I stuck it in the Museum.

I take your point about the bling on that Baby Bradwin TF.

Topic merged - Site Admin.

A machine in North America!
Should I buy this? Don't know anything about this model, if it's just a knock-off, etc.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/283539986782?_t ... .S1.R3.TR3

Looks good to me.
Whether you should buy it is another matter...

cait001 wrote: ↑Sat Jul 13, 2019 5:23 pm Don't know anything about this model...

See posts now merged above.

I spoke too soon... Looking more closely - what's with the weird ball track? Have to say - that doesn't look right. And the hinges are wrong and why the gap between the top of the door and the cabinet? Oh dear...

Not original ball track you think? Seems to let the winning ball in, effect the payout mech somehow, and then returns the ball to the play area, no?

Very different than this internal shot from the Ballwin thread you posted.

Thanks for looking for me.

Although different from the earlier examples, the internal mechanism looks complete, and probably working.

Ok, so I bought it. Finally adding my first UK machine to the collection!
What size of ball do these machines use?

Congratulations and good luck with your purchase. I'm guessing the balls are the standard Oliver Whales 9/16"?

I picked up that Ballwin from eBay. Except for the payout slot being slightly different it's very very close to the first machine posted in this forum

Bad news is that FedEx smashed in the front of the frame and busted part of the frame and broke the hinges. That sucks, but fixable in the end.
Good news is that the mechanism works perfectly, releasing the ball when you insert a coin and paying out with the winning pockets.

One thing I am confused about is the gap between the track and the glass. I'm used to pachinko machines where the glass sits very close so the ball can't come forward. See gap here:



(From top to bottom, that's wood, glass, gap, track, wood)
Is this normal? Right now when the ball comes out it falls forward and off the track. Help!

I bought 9/16" balls but those were too large for the pockets. There was one ball in the cabinet that is smaller than 9/16" and it seems to work though it still doesn't stay on the track (see above)

The game came with a few old Australian pennies, from 1905-1942 or so. Is there a recommended guide for coin sizes I should reference? These ones work great, but I definitely need more compatible coins.

cait001 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 12:43 pmThe game came with a few old Australian pennies, from 1905-1942 or so. Is there a recommended guide for coin sizes I should reference? These ones work great, but I definitely need more compatible coins.

Wikipedia tells me the Australian pennies of 1911-1965 had the same composition and dimensions as British ones though to 1970, so my next question is, where would be the best place to order 50 British and/or Australian pennies from?

Aussie pennies are slightly thicker than the old British pennies, I discovered the same when I could not understand why I was having issues with an Allwin acceptor....then found a few threads on here about it and measured the difference.

Buying old pennies, UK eBay a good start as loads for sale, should be around £7 to £10 per 100, plus the killer shipping costs......maybe you could find some on eBay where you are.

Gap from glass, should be not big enough to allow the ball bearing to bang about when in operation, run smoothly and not get stuck between the glass and track. This can be caused by wrong replacement sheet glass being too thin, but I have had an occasion where even fitting as thick as glass into slot there was too big a glass. Other thing your ball track, is it a replacement, maybe using some kind of aluminium channelled strip, as it looks like it has lips on the sides. If this is the wrong width it may also affect play. Is play smooth?

There was a bag of 1,200 mint old British pennies, sold for around £80 at the Elephant House auction last Sunday. No help, I'm afraid, but they're readily available in the UK, at least.

There should be very little gap between the glass and the ball track, but as I said, your game doesn't have the original ball track. What is the gap between the playfield and glass on yours? The correct track is rolled brass, chrome plated, about 2 cm deep with an inner contour that the ball runs against.

Try to avoid 'mixed date' pennies from eBay sellers. They are certainly mixed, but they are all invariably ancient and thin.
Stick to the present Queen or her dad. Unissued 1967 ones are readily available in quantity, and worth the little extra cost.

treefrog wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 2:40 pmbut I have had an occasion where even fitting as thick as glass into slot there was too big a glass. Other thing your ball track, is it a replacement, maybe using some kind of aluminium channelled strip, as it looks like it has lips on the sides. If this is the wrong width it may also affect play. Is play smooth?

When you found the gap was too big, even with the thickest glass, what did you do then? Might have to get a custom secondary piece of glass or lexan up in there to fill the gap.
Consensus seems to be the ball track is a replacement. I will measure it later tonight. I assume the strip would approximately be as wide as the winning cups?

I am not a serious Allwin collector, I just wanted a machine in this style so people could try it at the local coin-op/gameroom show, so willing to listen to all options.