To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

[widget2k4]

Don't do what I did, I tried a hammer and punch but went the wrong way and burst it.
It's a left hand thread, as I discovered the hard way. lol

Maybe could get it with say two nails in opposite holes and put a bar in between them and lever against each other? Never tried it, but just a thought?

[aristomatic]

Bandit Handle Collar Extraction Tool

Sega Bonanza help needed please

Gameswat's advice on not doing anything until you are sure that you want to repaint or rechrome or remodel is, I believe, sound advice, but it's your machine, so do what you feel most comfortable with as you are likely to have additional information that we are not privy to, e.g. where it's likely to be situated, what other pieces are around it, whether they are original or refurbed etc.

I also believe strongly that you should let these threads develop before jumping in on either my or someone else's individual input.

Use the search facility too, there's loads more info there, and you can see how some threads develop and offer alternate options etc.
It's nearly always better to have more info, then base your decision on all of that info and relate it to your own circumstances and also your own skill-set and financial state of play.

I have above added some links, which you may have already read, but just in case you hadn't had the time to browse through. There's plenty more info too.

GP

[timosix]

Thanks for all the advice and input. Those jeweller's peg clamps are just the job aren't they. I am going to persevere with the base being replaced. I will see how it pans out (bit of a challenge for me).

Could my machine really be as early as 1958?

[coppinpr]

Could my machine really be as early as 1958?

No reason why not.

Early Sega slot machines
The production of early Sega slot machines lasted roughly from 1952 to the mid-1960s and encompassed dozens of models. In 1952, when the United States outlawed slot machines, Martin Bromley saw the emerging Japanese market as an opportunity for gaming. He purchased slot machines from the government, and set up a company to import them to Japan

From the "SegaRetro" site.

[badpenny]

Wow I am amazed with the photo of the date trickery

I learnt the photo of the date trickery years ago when I was a Human Resources Manager in industry and had a visit from the Traffic Police. One of our company cars had been Gatso'ed speeding. We weren't denying it was one of ours as it had the company name written all over it. We did need though to identify which one in order to name the driver. The registration was illegible. They simply produced a Black & White version in negative.
The contrast was enough to narrow it down.
It takes a bit of fiddling about with.

Yours was particularly tricky as the original date was very faded.

BP

[aristomatic]

With reference to the base, firstly, I have never replaced a base; have always sold machines on to others who have greater skill-set in that area, to achieve better than I could ever do...
You may well have thought about this option and rejected it or, if you haven't, then others may well chip in with far simpler or more practical solutions, of course, but just trying to think of simple options that may give you more confidence before trying to complete whole permanent job in one go. that's all.

Maybe, once the original base is removed, you could temporarily place the sides into the new base and then just use the x4 long carriage bolts to secure the baseplate and bolt the two front castings into place to give it some rigidity. Then you would be able to place the mechanism in and ensure that the jackpot is in correct position to the mechanism behind etc. and mark all positions once you are happy that all pieces are in correct position? You could unscrew the long carriage bolts and reposition the baseplate etc. until you are happy on alignment. Once you are happy that all pieces are in alignment, then after marking discreetly the appropriate positions, you could disassemble and then reassemble the cabinet on a permanent basis with appropriate adhesives and runners below etc.

Just a thought - as I said, others who have actually done the job may well chip in with more relevant hands-on experience of this particular job. Anyway, you confirmed that you are going to replace the base, so best of luck on it. Hopefully it will go smoother than anticipated.

Any other questions - just shout.

GP

[timosix]

To remove the main handle bush from the cabinet, I found that two allen keys wedged in two of the holes and an extenstion bar between the two, worked a treat (I was surprised how stable this was).

IMP - It's a reverse thread, so clockwise to undo!

[widget2k4]

Yep, that's what I said when I mentioned using nails or similar with a bar between them.

[marktol]

Interesting.

I've not come across a treaded one before. All the machines I've done have had three screws on the inside which you remove and the hub just drops out.

That's a useful tip if I get a machine that doesn't have that!

[aristomatic]

Nice tip, glad it worked for you this time.

Remember, of course, it may or may not work on the next machine!
I took the handle ball off a handle rod the other day, just unscrewed by hand - no problem. Tried another, no chance, so popped the handle ball in hot water in the sink and 'bingo', it unscrewed by hand x 5 mins later.
The third one's still in the sink with the ball still attached.... two days later...........................


GP

[slotalot]

To remove the main handle bush from the cabinet, I found that two allen keys wedged in two of the holes and an extenstion bar between the two, worked a treat (I was surprised how stable this was).

IMP - It's a reverse thread, so clockwise to undo!

If you think that you may have to do a few machines, it might be worth you buying the right tool for the job you can get then on Ebay for under a tenner, and you get to keep the skin on your knuckles were it belongs
just look for " adjustable pin wrench"

[timosix]

Does anyone know what these two 'widgets' do? One is a copper rod which gets depressed when the door to closed, the other seems to a lever for adjusting something?

http://s1023.photobucket.com/user/timob ... y.jpg.html

I am also looking for some guidance regarding getting the jackpot mechanism working. I believe this little post on the top of the payout slides lifts the lever above it which drops the jackpot out? Are there any guides for jackpot mechanism refurbing/repair?

http://s1023.photobucket.com/user/timob ... y.jpg.html

I am intending to degrease the escalator in paraffin, allow to dry and polish the internal coin guides with Autosol. Is this OK? I have read on this forum that the payout slides much not be lubricated in any way but I take it cleaning and polishing up is OK?

Anyone know where I can get cheap bulk sixpences and they seem to be rather expensive on eBay? Oh and is there an easy way of cleaning them for use in our machines. I was just going to hand scrub in hot water and detergent as I am not worried about keeping them in mint finish, just free from grime would be good.

Thanks

[coppinpr]

The thin one is the operating lever stop, used to interrupt the cycle if there are jams, usually in the escalator. The other one is the machine cycle bypass lever, used to quickly load the coin tube with coins by allowing the escalator to operate without cycling the mech.

You are right about the top slide jackpot release. The book to get is the "Owner's Pictorial Guide to Mills Machines". This will show all aspects of jp service and rebuild.

Yes, clean and polish (lightly) the escalator. As you said, you will need to very lightly oil the parts that are away from the coins themselves.
There are usually bulk 6ds at the Coventry auction next Sunday.

[badpenny]

As Coppinpr says .... tanners by the truck load next Sun at Coventry.

[timosix]

Thanks for the reply Coppinpr. The thin lever would usually be pressed in by the back door so are you saying it only operates to interrupt the cycle if the back door is off and the rod is outwards?

I have just had a go at scrubbing the escalator with paraffin, its a messy and smelly business and I am wondering why I don't adopt the same approach I have been using to initially clean the cabinet metal parts, that is to use really, really hot water with sugar soap/detergent and clean with a brush or light scouring pad as I guess the point of using a solvent is to break down the dried on grease and oil which you can pretty much do with hot water and detergent. The metal components of the mechanism all seem to be mild steel with some sort of coating which doesn't seem to rust (I am sure you will contradict me on that one ) By using really hot water it tends to evaporate after you have cleaned leaving it shiny and dry after a 10 minutes or so.

Coventry auction - I would love to come down. If anyone can scoup some sixpences for me I would gladly send some money by PayPal or similar. I reckon I need at least 400 for that machine.

[coppinpr]

Let us know where you're based and I'm sure someone will be close to you and buy for you.

I don't know how bad the escalator was, but when I clean them I simply take them completly to pieces and clean with a spray cleaner with bleach in it. Any rust I use very very fine wire wool on just the rust, then polish.

[timosix]

Hi.

The Escalator was not that bad and I have just managed to clean up one of the components better by scrubbing with hot water/detergent and then a quick polish rather than the paraffin method. That said when I get to the Clock I would rather just immerse it in paraffin within a plastic box and give it some agitation.

Are there any decent UK supplier of Sega/Mill High top spares. I am trying to get some upper payout finger springs, escalator spring, oh and those rectangle retaining washers would be good too. Mr Slot in the USA looks like he has everything but did I read on here that you have to make sure order isn't over £15 or you have to pay import tax?

I am in Sheffield if anyone can help with the coins, parts. That Coventry Auction sounds like I would learn a lot there. Do they sell all sorts of spares as well as complete machines?

Thanks again.

[JC]

That Coventry Auction sounds like I would learn a lot there. Do they sell all sorts of spares as well as complete machines?

Yes, indeed there will be oodles of bandit spares, as well as many wonderful machines. And yes, you will learn a lot. Coventry is the biggest slotties' event in the UK and it only happens once a year, so if you miss this you'll have to wait another year. So order yourself yourself a catalogue, and we'll see you next Sunday.

[url]http://www.mechanicalmemoriesmagazine.c ... 4557541957[/url]

[timosix]

OK you have convinced me, I have bought a catalogue for the auction. What time does it start and when does it finish? I will have to bring my 9yr old daughter with me, does she get in free?

Is the Arena just for previous auction prices?

Oh and I know the only two parts to grease on a bandit is the main fork bearings and the handle spindle, is silicone grease OK to use or does it have to be automotive lithium based gunk?

[slotalot]

Is the Arena just for previous auction prices?

The Arena is filled with lots & lots of interesting stuff and well worth the entry fee