Somebody knows... Maybe you?
marktol
Posts: 397
Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2010 2:20 pm
Location: Southampton
Contact:

Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Postby marktol » Mon Nov 11, 2013 9:39 am

Your mech looks like it's missing the springs on the payout fingers, if you haven't already taken them off?

Depending how much glass you were sent, it may not be thick enough with just the JP. You could use some cardboard here cut to the right size to pad it out if needed, as opposed to buying the spacers.

A good source of spares for smaller stuff is mrslot1.com who ships from America and is very reasonably priced.

Best of luck,
Mark
Last edited by marktol on Mon Nov 11, 2013 9:59 am, edited 1 time in total.

timosix
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:30 am
Location: Sheffield

Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Postby timosix » Mon Nov 11, 2013 9:57 am

Wow I am amazed with the photo of the date trickery, would 1958 be too early for a Sega?

I have bought all the missing springs from Henry. When I was a kid, I used elastic bands to 'repair' it. I am not sure I want to deal with Mr Slot who 'shits' from the US!!!! :D

User avatar
coppinpr
Posts: 4002
Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2010 2:01 pm
Location: Lewes, East Sussex
Contact:

Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Postby coppinpr » Mon Nov 11, 2013 9:59 am

A good source of spares for smaller stuff is mrslot1.com who shits from America and is very reasonably priced.
Now that sounds messy, Mark !!COOEE!!

marktol
Posts: 397
Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2010 2:20 pm
Location: Southampton
Contact:

Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Postby marktol » Mon Nov 11, 2013 10:02 am

Opps - Monday morning caffeine hasn't kicked in yet...!

User avatar
coppinpr
Posts: 4002
Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2010 2:01 pm
Location: Lewes, East Sussex
Contact:

Re: Sega Bell/Mills High top linkage welding and other quest

Postby coppinpr » Mon Nov 11, 2013 12:43 pm

There is no getting away from it, fitting a new base is not easy. Did yours come with slots cut in it? I've just done a Jennings which did, but I can't remember if the Mills ones are slotted. Even if it is, it may well not quite fit, which is a real pain, and then added to that, fitting a base means a complete strip down of the case, top and bottom castings, pump, and main plate. The main plate is important - mark its position where it meets the sides, so it can go back into the same position when you rebuild. Is is important for positioning of the mech with regard to the JP etc. The main plate might slide out backwards, but usually not, and needs a bit of "jiggery pokery" to get it out and back in again. You may well need to drill holes in the new base to match the side connections. You will also need to position the pump with care, but this is a good time to service the pump (it has no oil in it, only on the shaft).

I differ from the hard purists, I like to restore machines once they have passed a certain stage of distress. I think yours has. I would strip and repaint in an original colour. This is my view only and the gurus may well disagree. I think they look better and get a re-birth.

How many coins do you need...? Loads../ think of a number and double it. The jackpot alone, if set for max size will take 200. The coin tube? Another 150.
I've never seen anyone mention this, but a stack of 10 shillings worth of 6d coins (20) is exactly 1 inch tall, so you can measure it out !SMARTY!

Come to Coventry, there are usually loads of 6d for sale and, dare I say it, loads of spares at half the price HP charges.
hi-top yellow.jpg
Here is a flyer for the type 'D':
early sega type d.jpg

User avatar
gameswat
Posts: 1824
Joined: Sat May 30, 2009 5:17 am
Location: perth, australia

Re: To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Postby gameswat » Mon Nov 11, 2013 1:48 pm

Coppin is dead right about it being a serious job to replace the base. Is the original that bad it can't have a new front spliced in? Sounds hard but a handy woodworker should have no trouble cutting off the damaged wood leaving a clean line to glue to. And anybody restoring furniture will have a stock of old oak to match in fine. Those bases usually have joins in them anyway so another won't be noticed. A few biscuit joiners and glue the thing back together and no problem. The repro base would come in handy as a pattern to copy the size and shape and still be on-sold on this site afterwards.

marktol
Posts: 397
Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2010 2:20 pm
Location: Southampton
Contact:

Re: To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Postby marktol » Mon Nov 11, 2013 2:45 pm

Good Point,

I recently had to re-glue a hi top base. It was in three sections; glued and held together mainly by the two runners (batons) on the bottom and the sides, which are glued on. Not all bases are made out of three planks. Some are solid, but it should be a fairly simple job, as you say, to neaten off the existing and attach a new section to replace the missing broken part.

That would then hopefully save the need to mess around with the handle pump and the base plate, which would make it a much more tricky job, as Paul pointed out previously.

Mark.

timosix
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:30 am
Location: Sheffield

Re: To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Postby timosix » Mon Nov 11, 2013 5:46 pm

Hiya,

You guys are frightening the life out of me. I didn't think replacing the base would be that bad. The new one is routed out where the old sides need to fit so I just need to loosely fit them on then make sure the back door is at 90 degrees. Fit the front metal parts of the cabinet and mark where the apron is going in.

I suppose I need to make sure the sides are positioned so the handle is in the correct position?

I doesn't seem that bad. Please wise coin machine gurus, what am I missing....?
IMG_2330Copy.jpg
Old and new base:
basebrokenoffCopy.jpg
Old base broken off:

User avatar
arrgee
Posts: 1017
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:56 am
Location: North Wiltshire

Re: To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Postby arrgee » Mon Nov 11, 2013 7:22 pm

Neat base job, timosix.

ps........ 4 across is 'used car' !!CHEERS!!

timosix
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:30 am
Location: Sheffield

Re: To repaint my Sega Bell or leave original?

Postby timosix » Mon Nov 11, 2013 8:20 pm

Any ideas how to make a tool to fit into the external handle collar (4 small holes) to unscrew it? I was thinking of using a bit of hardwood and panel pins across two of the holes to make a lever. Any better ideas that don't involve welding?

Anyone has experience of matching the new and old parts of the wooden cabinet. I was going to wait till I sanded it down till I pondered that one but any guidance would be good.

Thanks.


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 5 guests