Wulff Jupiter wiring

[slotalot]

Any room behind that sofa Stuart?
BP

I am trying to suppress my capacity to get involved this time.....if you know what I mean??... lol.

[guyblue10]

It's doing everything except....stopping....it clunks, whirrs, lights up, spins...goes through a whole cycle then when it's meant to stop and wait for a coin....it starts again, and again and again

As the connector is close to the coin mech I thought maybe it should be connected to a normally closed switch somewhere attached to the mech than opens when a coin passes it.....which would start it going again.....

Without anything connected to it it's open all the time and would explain it's current action (if there's meant to be a switch attached....if you see what I mean)

[slotalot]

Any chance of a good clear readable photo of the circuit diagram?? might help to sort out what is happening

DAM!....getting interested again...lol.

[guyblue10]

Thanks. Here's the diagram and a close up of the connector next to the mech

In the bottom left of the diagram there's a munze (coin) operated switch, but there's no switch attached to anywhere on the mech...and a connector that goes nowhere in the perfect place for the connector to be, should it be going to a switch attached to the mech....brilliant logic, I think you'll agree....

Except that the diagram shows a normally open switch which screws up my theory......!

[slotalot]

I think you are correct in your thinking, the terminal will be for the coin switch, the coin switch needs to be a normally open switch, when a coin is put into the machine the switch will close, the coin is held in position manually keeping the switch closed until the motor starts to turn, once cam Number 1 closes contacts b & d the coin is ejected and the machine should run on to complete a full cycle.

Have you tried shorting the white & yellow wires in the terminal block together to make the machine start its cycle? DO THIS WITH CARE AS THEY ARE 240 VOLTS you should only need to short them together for a few seconds until the motor turns cam 1 enough to make contacts b & d close.
give it a try and let me know how you get on?? and remember BE CAREFULL!

Cleaned up the photo.

[guyblue10]

Aaah...no - you speed read a bit a bit of my post I think....my problem is that the machine is constantly running - it never stops - the motor turns through the whole cycle then when it gets to the end of the rotation (where it should stop waiting for the coin operated switch to detect a coin) it just carries on as if the switch were made

Just put a meter across the yellow and white wires and it's an open circuit - so they're not shorted somewhere further in..

[daveslot]

heres a pic of the coin mech section

[slotalot]

....my problem is that the machine is constantly running - it never stops

OK, it sounds like you have permanent contact on cam 1 ?? The switch on cam 1 should be open when cam 1 is in its rest position.
I have isolated the area of the wiring diagram where you need to be looking, as your machine is missing the capacitors on the mains input it is "possible" that the contacts might have sparked and welded them self's shut???
NB. Cam No 1 is the one next to the motor..

[daveslot]

I think this question been asked before but I can't find the answer. What's the purpose of this section? Can it be bypassed? How is the terminal block wired to the mains? Is there enough info in photo?

I didn't get anywhere when I first asked this question. I presume these are capicators used in this case as suppressors or maybe surge protectors. I have acquired a large amount of e/m games, some I have never seen before, and would love to see them working again. On some of the games this section is present and on others missing, even though they are similar games, so can it be bypassed. To answer bp, the plug goes directly to a transformer.

[glittering-prize67]

This is my Jupiter....and answers at least one of your questions...

IMG_0990_zps6401c1d3.jpg

Could I trade you for a picture of the area around the coin mech showing connections to any switches/wires?

The gizmo on the left side where the power comes in is just a suppressor to stop the motors etc. interfering with other appliances. It will work without, but better with. I would also replace those paper caps. They are bound to be knackered after all that time. I did have one years ago but can't really remember much about the inside. I do believe it's a live chassis though - keep fingers out when switched on.

[operator bell]

The coil and capacitor thing is just an electrical noise suppressor. It can be removed and bypassed with no ill effects at all, except that people listening to AM radio in the same room will be annoyed.

[daveslot]

I thought that's what they were for. The capacitors had three wires coming out of them instead of the usual two, which I had not seen before.
Thanks.

[operator bell]

Those are 'Y' capacitors - two in one package, one for each line, with the common connection going to earth. This being a post-war German machine, the earth wire is red. This is what the modern kind looks like - note the 'Y' capacitor on the right - the Wulff version has an extra stage of two small chokes and a 'Y' capacitor following on the input side.

[daveslot]

Mine seems to work OK, but I can't get the lights to work. There is a pair of red wires going nowhere, see pic. Does anybody know what fits in the hole just above said wires? What's the fuse rating that sits on the transformer?
Thanks.

[guyblue10]

Here's mine...

The fuse is 3a. The Black thing is a latching push switch.

[daveslot]

Brilliant, , but what's the function of the latching push switch?

[guyblue10]

Ha! - I knew you were going to ask that - I'll have a look this evening...

[badpenny]

Comparing the two photos it looks as if the latching switch controls the 3A power from the transformer to the machine.
However the wires (red ones) that would have gone to the switch are sitting coiled together but not in contact so the circuit is still open.

There also appears to be other bits of electric string haphazardly slouching around, so before you start prodding anything make sure you turn the volume on your electric meter up and stand in a bucket of water. I might have got that bit wrong.

[slotalot]

The missing switch is for the play-field lighting. When the switch is open circuit (like it is now) the lights will only come on when the game is being played; with the switch closed circuit the lights will be on all the time the machine is plugged in: "display mode".