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Guess I'm a little slow to catch on... How does this help with winding the new coil? Would have expected to count turns and measure the wire gauge on the old coil. Wouldn't the voltage just determine the insulation required?

Sorry, yes, you are correct. What I would say is not to count the turns but unwind the complete coil and measure its resistance, and length. You will then have a guide to what your new coil resistance should be. This can also verify that the replacement wire you use is of the correct gauge by comparing the resistance.

That I can understand. Should I expect these to be DC or AC?

I should add that I'm in the US, and running on 110V. The machine takes US nickles. Don't know if it was converted from 220V or if it came from the factory that way. Since most of the solenoids are working OK I figure it's not a problem.

It would be 220 or 110 depending on its primary taping, which I would check has been correctly set. The voltage will almost certainly be a/c on the coils. I like to work the voltage out so I can then know what current should be drawn when I make new coils, but I’m funny like that.

Of course you could check across other coils to see if it’s a/c or d/c, but beware, some of these Segas use a variety of different coils requiring different voltages.

I see a Williams pintable coil used as a reset coil on that stepper unit which I think ran on 24volts ac. Looks like Williams coils could be used to replace any burnt out relay coils. Check the coils first with a meter, as the coils often look discoloured with the paper wrappings burnt off.

Thanks for the tips. I was hoping there would be just a few common Sega coils that they used everywhere, that would make for convenient replacements. Nothing's ever as simple as I hope for. Never wound a coil before, but it doesn't look too challenging.

Wait... I see livinginthepast's post popped up while I was typing. Maybe there's hope for an easy solution. I might even have access to some surplus Williams parts, since I am in Chicago.

Amazingly the markings on the solenoid coils are still ledgible and helpful.

Multi Unit reset:. 202C-15, 0.30 wire, 1080 turns
Multi Unit advance:. 201C-8,. O.45 wire, 1040 turns

Counting Unit reset:. B-28 1450, 28 Ga, 1450 turns
Counting Unit advance:. 201C-8, 0.45 wire, 1040 turns

Time to search for replacements. I don't know how closely I should match these specs. I'm seeing a mind boggling assortment online, but no close matches yet.

The relay coils are mostly unmarked. The Coin relay coil is marked "50". Ohm measurements for all the relays are:

Anti-Cheat. 86
Hold. 33
Coin. 51
Payout 50
Jackpot. 85
7-7-7. 87
Solenoid. 86

The Hold relay looks suspicious to me. Shorted turns?

Fantastic! If there's an easy fix I should be able to find it there.

Post merged - Site Admin.

I'm currently working on a Sega Console machine that has quite a few electro-mechanical features. Knowing the basic mechanism is a clone of the Mills, I was thinking of getting the book on Mills machines as a reference.

Is there any other option that would cover some of the electro-mechanical systems too? Are there machines other than slots that have similar electro-mechanical parts, such as pinball machines?

I'd prefer to limit myself to 2 reference books. I probably won't' be getting any more machines, and my only other slot machine is a late 1980s Bally that has it's own service guide.

Can we see a photo of the machine, inside and out, so we know exactly what you need?

Thanks Admin for merging the threads. The pictures already posted are probably good enough.





The lower cabinet with most of the electro-mechanical parts. There are more detailed pics earlier in this thread.



Some of the major parts with labels include: Multi Unit, Counting Unit, Cam Unit.

The main bank of relays are labelled: Anti Cheat, Coin, Hold, Jackpot, Payout, 7-7-7, Solenoid.