Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
In fact while the diameter is the same the Aussie Pennies have a slightly thicker rim edge, about .20 mm thicker on average, which will cause jamming issues with higher payouts than a single coin. Not an issue with most single coin return Allwins of course, but usually I have to shim the slide bodies on any British import machines giving two returns. And on the bigger payouts it means making a new set of thicker slides as well. Funnily enough nearly all the Allwins I've purchased the last 20 years in the USA were missing payouts anyway so has usually worked to my advantage. The mechs were very often wholesale removed due to the strict US gaming laws when they were imported on mass in the 1970s. Recently on the prototype Essex Horse Racer I restored the payout slides couldn't be converted without re-engineering a huge amount of the mechanism, which would have cost a small fortune for the owner and ruined the machine. So I had to leave it be and the machine can only ever run on British Pennies, otherwise the machine will quickly jam and bend components.
Any Aussie Pennies that have been dropped will have an even thicker burr so when I buy them bulk for copper scrap values I need to check them all. There are still millions out there as people hung on to them when we changed in Feb 1966.
Any Aussie Pennies that have been dropped will have an even thicker burr so when I buy them bulk for copper scrap values I need to check them all. There are still millions out there as people hung on to them when we changed in Feb 1966.
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
If I ever get an Aussie bandit still on pennies, I'll have to import some.
Your 'tanners' are insanely expensive over here. I gather you kept a high silver content right to the end.
Your 'tanners' are insanely expensive over here. I gather you kept a high silver content right to the end.
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
Australian "Tanners" might be expensive as they did have a silver content right to the end but the sixpenny coin was replaced by the 5 cent coin which is still in use to this day. It is regularly minted and is exactly the same size and thickness as the sixpenny coin but does not contain any silver.
Both the Australian sixpence and five cent coin are the same size as the American one cent coin. Thus both an Australian 5 cent coin and six pence would work an American poker/slot machine designed to work on an US one cent coin and a US one cent coin would work an Australian poker machine designed to work on a sixpenny coin.
So instead of expensive silver content Australian tanners perhaps Brigham could use Australian 5 cent coins or the even cheaper American one cent coins.
Both the Australian sixpence and five cent coin are the same size as the American one cent coin. Thus both an Australian 5 cent coin and six pence would work an American poker/slot machine designed to work on an US one cent coin and a US one cent coin would work an Australian poker machine designed to work on a sixpenny coin.
So instead of expensive silver content Australian tanners perhaps Brigham could use Australian 5 cent coins or the even cheaper American one cent coins.
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
New Zealand 1d coins are the same sizes as the Aussie 1d coins. I picked up a stack when I visited NZ last year.
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
No I just ordered a 3kg bulk lot of them. I had a few dozen already, but not enough really seeing it might take more than that to hit the jackpot.
I will convert it all back to use pennies now, after reading all the replies, plus I was wrong about the thickness of our $1 coins. They are thicker and my mad plan wouldn't work.
I would need both a payout slide and coin tube plus housing to suit.
All I need to make to convert it back to pennies will be new coin tube and tube housing.
These are the packers that were put in the Aluminium cast coin entry. Game was converted to take the New 1Pence coins.
Anyhow game coming along nice, new acetate cut and installed, the old piece was cracked/torn off near the nail holes and it was warped. I gently cleaned the art too, didn't go too far.
I did find an English half penny, the tiny ones from 1970 on, after I'd taken the cover and artwork off. Not sure where it fell out from though. I wonder if it's what had made the machine not work?
As far as I know the game never worked correctly, but it only had one ball in it. It needs 4 at least, I was told, so I bought 10 new ones.
I had a bit of a test run with the game using the new balls - it looks like it should all work, touch wood. Very clever the way it all works, still getting my head around it.
All the metal has been polished up; waiting for new payout cards and decals, so the machine is not fully back together. The Cabinet ply still needs to be re-glued in a few more places. More pics will follow as I get her back to life again ...
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
92.5% silver from 1910 till 1945 then 50% silver through till 1965. We went decimal in 1966.
I bought a 100 early ones not long ago, 3d's for a machine I have, and they were about twice the cost as the 50% silver later made coins.
I heard during the 1960s silver boom our silver coins were being smuggled out of the country because of the high value, worth more in silver than the price of the coin.
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
Hi gameswat ,gameswat wrote: ↑Mon Nov 12, 2018 8:21 am Hey Ralph, I'm in Perth but sold the last Wonders allwin over a decade ago so can't help you with looking at another original sadly, which of course is the best way to go with jobs like this. I have a few other allwins awaiting restoration and various parts though again nothing Wonders. What is actually missing?
The really only part that I can't find or manufacture is the nice cast 1D coin entry plate Wonders used on some Wonders games, by the looks of it.
Wondering if you know where or if one can be sourced? It would look the part with the correct one fitted.
The other parts it needs are a payout tube and housing, to suit old pennies, but I could get these made if need be. You can see it's had another tube and housing fitted in the past to suit new 1p coins.
Cheers
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
The existing penny badge could be 'de-decimalized' quite easily, until the right one could be found.
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
Was thinking of doing away with it altogether if I can get the cast one, but good idea about changing it back.
I could get a decal made for the time being.
In the meantime I will file out the existing coin insert to take the large old pennies.
The 1p plate looks likes its been trimmed up to suit the cabinet width , so it would be nice to just have the cast coin entrance part.
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
I made a few Wonders coin slots a few years ago out of Prince August metal, I think I may still some somewhere.
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
You could edit the letter 'P' to make a 'D', the opposite to what the 'decimalizers' did in '71.
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
Oh I see, yes I could paint out the bottom part of the P and be left with a small capital D.
Hi Alan57, if you do find any would you be prepared to sell one? It will go to a good home.
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Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
I've made the odd part out of "Prince August metal" and it's easy to work with.
Due to its softness I've found that coating it afterwards, especially surfaces that will come into contact with other metal helps it not wear.
If you Google casting resin and search for those that claim to have a diamond hard finish you'll find two pack products. Give the inside of the slot where the coin will touch a generous coating. It might even be worth oversizing the hole and building it back up with the resin. It dries fairly quickly but doesn't truly go off for a day or so and if you're impatient you'll end up with a sticky surface.
BP
Due to its softness I've found that coating it afterwards, especially surfaces that will come into contact with other metal helps it not wear.
If you Google casting resin and search for those that claim to have a diamond hard finish you'll find two pack products. Give the inside of the slot where the coin will touch a generous coating. It might even be worth oversizing the hole and building it back up with the resin. It dries fairly quickly but doesn't truly go off for a day or so and if you're impatient you'll end up with a sticky surface.
BP
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
Thanks very much Alan , wow that was quick , was hoping someone had one cheers , that looks great.
I will send you a private message alan
Thanks again to BP also about tips about the resins too
The only Wonders coin slot of the same style I could find online , was in the UK , brass and not plated , that had been sold.
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
Made the small ratchet part needed out of 3 Pinball target lifters, I used 3 to build up the thickness it needed. Only a bit of grinding and one small hold drilled to take the spring, it worked after 1 minor filing.
New cards and decals fitted. Thanks to a collector friend Adrian and his wifey on doing a great job with them.
Game mostly back together again.
The Cabinet was painted black by the previous owner. He did a nice job with it, so I will be leave it as it is for now.
What does everyone else think about this? Painted or back to natural ply?
Just a few more cabinet repairs/ re-gluing and the coin chute to suit old pennies and the coin housing.
Thanks to Alan57 I have the correct coin slot on the way too.
Will post more pics as it progresses.
New cards and decals fitted. Thanks to a collector friend Adrian and his wifey on doing a great job with them.
Game mostly back together again.
The Cabinet was painted black by the previous owner. He did a nice job with it, so I will be leave it as it is for now.
What does everyone else think about this? Painted or back to natural ply?
Just a few more cabinet repairs/ re-gluing and the coin chute to suit old pennies and the coin housing.
Thanks to Alan57 I have the correct coin slot on the way too.
Will post more pics as it progresses.
Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
Coin parts are made, I put together the coin tube, which I will need to shorten and or modify slightly if the coins won't slip off into the cash box properly. I will see when the game is complete and operating.
My friend made up the Teflon housing and put together the 4 fancy spring loaded brass adjustment screws.
He always over builds everything, built to last.
My friend made up the Teflon housing and put together the 4 fancy spring loaded brass adjustment screws.
He always over builds everything, built to last.
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Re: Wonders Hit-N-Run restore
Hit n Run back together working. Pays out up to 8 pennies if you load all 3 bases and make a home run.
This game was missing the cash box and 1 or 2 coin chute parts.
I made one coin chute plate to guide coins to the pay out tray. I made that out of thin stainless, after making up a template out of card.
I used my new sheet metal bender, came out well. I'm not sure how close it is to the factory fitted one though.
Screwed on the new repro 1D coin entrance plate, cheers Alan57.
Game still needs a few minor satin black paint touch ups on the cab.
One last part I need to sort out is the cashbox, its size and chute set up, which feeds the cashbox.
Cabinet has two slots cut into the ply inside, one I think is for a lock to latch into.
The other is quite long and runs at an angle... I need a plan or photo of how it should be. I'm thinking the second slot is to hold the cashbox somehow on this larger Wonders plywood cabinet type?
Cheers in advance.
This game was missing the cash box and 1 or 2 coin chute parts.
I made one coin chute plate to guide coins to the pay out tray. I made that out of thin stainless, after making up a template out of card.
I used my new sheet metal bender, came out well. I'm not sure how close it is to the factory fitted one though.
Screwed on the new repro 1D coin entrance plate, cheers Alan57.
Game still needs a few minor satin black paint touch ups on the cab.
One last part I need to sort out is the cashbox, its size and chute set up, which feeds the cashbox.
Cabinet has two slots cut into the ply inside, one I think is for a lock to latch into.
The other is quite long and runs at an angle... I need a plan or photo of how it should be. I'm thinking the second slot is to hold the cashbox somehow on this larger Wonders plywood cabinet type?
Cheers in advance.
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