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You're in one of my all-time favourite seaside towns, but I'm unlikely to be over that way this time of year.
First thing I would do in this instance is slide out the mech, and clean and examine all the contact sets, and the multi-plug/socket arrangement for loose pins.
Do you have an AVOmeter? With the mains off, you could check continuity of the arm release solenoid, using the Ohms range; then, with mains on and coin accepted, check for voltage at the solenoid.
These machines fall between the 'penny slots' category, and the 'electro-mechanical' era. Neither enthusiasts group fully accepts them.
I've had useful hints from the MPU people: https://www.fruitemu.co.uk/ib/

I don’t have one mate and I’ve cleaned all the switches can’t find anything loose I’m clueless on what’s happening.

Picture below there’s 3 fuses 2 attached to wires ones not is this part of the problem? I’m struggling to find a loose or unlcean wire.

Hey guys, so I pulled out the mech, cleaned all the switches and I noticed they were all touching apart from one, so I tightened them together and it works. 1p is going on 3 plays is that correct? Thanks for all the advice. Now time to paint. Any good easy ways to remove the front face?

Splendid news.
If you work logically, you can get these machines to work.
Do the 'three-pulls' lights go along in sequence as you play? Fascinating to watch.
How about some pics? I'd like to see how good the reel-glass is. Most of them have been badly mutilated by the decimalizers, but if you are lucky, only stickers will have been used.
Removing the belly-glass is usually difficult. The nuts are found on the inside of the door; but even when you have found and undone them all, it either crashes to the ground, or stubbornly refuses to move.
If the belly-glass lights up, and you don't need to retouch the artwork, you could always leave it alone. I do.

Well done Paul, I was confident you'd get there, as I said "clean it all and check the switches!"
It looks like you got the lights working in your scullery.

BP

She just needs a clean, maybe a paint job. Not decided, might sell her and get something new. What is the going rate please guys. If it’s cheap she’s staying.

Well done mate, brilliant. That actually appears to be an old 6d coin for three plays machine. The 1 shilling award would pay 2 coins. Does it pay 2 coins or 5? (2 X 6d coin being a shilling). The five coin payout was introduced when they were converted to 1p for 1 play. If its still accepting 6d coins thats really cool and more likely quite hard to find now as most of these were converted; under the label on left side 'one penny' the original 3 plays for 6d artwork should be present. Did it come with any gold award tokens in the token tube? If not, you can probably find something on ebay. Good news and it looks nice with lights working too, Malc

I paid £200 for one last year.
That's not the general price for Bally bandits; I just happen to be keen on this 5/- Gold Award conversion.
Other types change hands for as little as £40.

unsworth2606 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 10, 2019 11:56 pm *update*
So I found pre 1992 coins and all get accepted and then the game light shows but still can't pull on the arm unless I click the solenoid myself.

Sounds like the solenoid is playing up. Check the feed wire to that solenoid. Also, if you have a circuit diagram, check everything possible regarding the power supply to the "dashpot switch for handle release circuit". I had a "Quick Draw" from the early 1970s and that was a rebuild from the popular "Sir Prize" machine from 1967 (give or take a year) but the handle locking/releasing is probably the same.