Bryan’s clock key to handle conversion.....
Re: Bryan’s clock key to handle conversion.....
Paul, can I just ask, when you got this machine did it have coins in it?
Re: Bryan’s clock key to handle conversion.....
No it didn’t have coins in. It was part of a collection from a retired showman. The number stamped on the machine is 979.
Re: Bryan’s clock key to handle conversion.....
I wonder if anybody can check their machines to see which of these holes the pin is through please. It could be this that is causing the handle to be difficult to turn....
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Re: Bryan’s clock key to handle conversion.....
On mine Paul, the pin is in the bottom hole,
Have you tried to crank the mech now it's out of the case.
Have you tried to crank the mech now it's out of the case.
Re: Bryan’s clock key to handle conversion.....
I have moved the pin to the bottom hole now. It cranks outside the case but is still very stiff. I wonder if the 2 springs are necessary but they appear original being still covered in blue paint.
Re: Bryan’s clock key to handle conversion.....
OK Paul, as you crank the mech, just do this slowly and check the movements of each linkage, to see if anything is binding. Looking at your mechanism it looks pretty clean, but I can't see any signs of lubrication. Also have you checked the center spindle to see if this is running free and true.
Re: Bryan’s clock key to handle conversion.....
Is that pin not just associated with the coin detector arm, so adjusted for coin size.
It is always difficult to say if a machine is stiff without comparing to another machine as previously mentioned. The issue with this design all the loaded parts for operation are tensioned on turning the handle, including the slide hammer, win selector arm and pivot ratchet.
I would first grease and inspect all the key parts on the operating arms that push back each of the bars, see below green arrows. (This is an older style mechanism)
The left hand lever operates the slide hammer, which has a spring, but not too much tension. The right lever operates the timing pivot, again has a spring loaded, but not the strongest. The one with the most tension is the centre arm that has a strong adjustable spring for detecting the win as well as lifting the coin stack and holding in place, so has to be strong enough to hold a full tube of coins. You can adjust this, but may affect payout if too weak.
I would say young children would find most of these tough to operate, but perhaps they were never meant to
Can you do a video as it might help see if issue is somewhere else
It is always difficult to say if a machine is stiff without comparing to another machine as previously mentioned. The issue with this design all the loaded parts for operation are tensioned on turning the handle, including the slide hammer, win selector arm and pivot ratchet.
I would first grease and inspect all the key parts on the operating arms that push back each of the bars, see below green arrows. (This is an older style mechanism)
The left hand lever operates the slide hammer, which has a spring, but not too much tension. The right lever operates the timing pivot, again has a spring loaded, but not the strongest. The one with the most tension is the centre arm that has a strong adjustable spring for detecting the win as well as lifting the coin stack and holding in place, so has to be strong enough to hold a full tube of coins. You can adjust this, but may affect payout if too weak.
I would say young children would find most of these tough to operate, but perhaps they were never meant to
Can you do a video as it might help see if issue is somewhere else
Re: Bryan’s clock key to handle conversion.....
Thanks for the pictures Treefrog. I will have another look and see what I can do. Machine runs very smoothly it’s just the actual turning of the key that seems to be the problem.
Re: Bryan’s clock key to handle conversion.....
Hi Paul,
If you look at the back of your mech, you will see a flat bar ( upper left.), this is attached to a spring rod, this is the spindle brake adjuster, This is adjusted so that the tension on the spindle will slow it down gradually before the end of cycle.
If you look at the position of yours it looks to be over tensioned,
Push the lever up to take tension off the spindle, too much tension here could be affecting the turning of the key.
If you compare your photo to the one Allan 57 posted on the other thread, you should see that he's is in the right position or there about.
Also there are 2 or 3 videos on you tube of 12 win clocks being played, you can see here that it's not such an easy task to turn the key
If you look at the back of your mech, you will see a flat bar ( upper left.), this is attached to a spring rod, this is the spindle brake adjuster, This is adjusted so that the tension on the spindle will slow it down gradually before the end of cycle.
If you look at the position of yours it looks to be over tensioned,
Push the lever up to take tension off the spindle, too much tension here could be affecting the turning of the key.
If you compare your photo to the one Allan 57 posted on the other thread, you should see that he's is in the right position or there about.
Also there are 2 or 3 videos on you tube of 12 win clocks being played, you can see here that it's not such an easy task to turn the key
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