Sega Imperial: no payout on cherry & adjust reel stops

[aristomatic]

Hi,

Yes that picture requested answers some but not all questions and, as TF says, the manual would cover cycling of the mechanism plus initial vertical slide sequence, but not actual payout, jackpot or the coin acceptor parts of this machine. However, if likely to buy more machines, it's likely to be of use in its entirety then.

If you could clarify what it pays for oranges, plums and bells. In addition, when the 3 stars pays 2 tokens, does it pay 1 token, then another 1 token, e.g. as a repeat action or 2 as one action? There will hopefully be a member who has more experience on this particular model with em/electronic pay.

[mickeyblue]

See attached image.

All payouts pay (apart from JP and special) from the first vertical tube directly from the coin slot. This also tops itself up from coins coming in from the user.

For each win eg 3 oranges it will trigger the actuator or.plunger 10 times and pay out 10 coins from the first pay tube.

Only the special and jackpot are paid from the token tube which has to be manually fed. The actuator for this pay out works exactly the same firing twice for two tokens for a special and once for a JP.

Hope this helps... Happy for the support and help here.
I love the machine as it is, but am just naturally curious as to how it works !

[mickeyblue]

To absolutely clarify the plunger when it fires 10 times the coins will fall out as individual coins not in one drop.. so coin 1 then 2 then 3 like every split second rather than hearing a noise 10 times then all 10 coins drop at the same time.

You had probably guessed this but just wanted to say.

[mickeyblue]

In case anyone is interested this is what is at the back of the cabinet once the mech is removed.

The vertical pay arms.. currently the first pin is striking the 5 coin (2 cherry ) pay out switch as the arm was able to pass through the 1st and 2nd pay wheels.

The other pics should show the main interface port that controls the solenoids for the payout...

I figure each pin on the interface will correspond with a single wire on the pay switches and coin detection. The use of this old style "comm" port i think is to enable the mech to be removed without having to always remove wires from a connector block.

Getting the multimeter out there is continuity between bottom row right last two pins and middle row rightmost pin. Only those 3 pins have continuity with each other.

Also i figure that these same switches for payouts will also trigger the counters to increment in the top box.

[aristomatic]

Thanks for clarifying.

Well if it's all paying out, as TF says, you just need to experiment to see what thickness and diameter the token payout would operate best with, then find the appropriate option. Someone, possibly a forum member, may have the same model and may have original tokens. They may let you have a few if they have a tube full and at least you could play the machine to full extent and just have to reinsert limited tokens by hand after a couple of jackpot wins or a 2 token payout. Tokens always come up for sale too, at least if you get visibility of correct token, you can try to source the correct option. I'll check my tokens but don't think I have any Sega ones currently.

[mickeyblue]

Topic merged - Site Admin.

Hi all,

I have a Sega Imperial and am looking to try and adjust the brakes as it seems that all three reels brake at the same time and not in that smooth 1-2-3 like I see with other mechanical machines.

I have looked at the bar that releases the brakes and it would seem that it releases them all at pretty much the same time.

I have included a pic of the bar and hoping if someone can tell me if the bar is correct. Is it genuine for this machine or if I'm missing something simple?

Included is the pic and hopefully a video... Edit it doesn't like the video files...

[badpenny]

Hi mickeyblue ......

It's hard to guess without seeing a video. To post a video you need to first upload it to a host site like Youtube, and then post a link to it here.
I'm guessing your photo shows it at rest, perhaps another one showing it just before the mech fires. If they are all going together I'm wondering if dried grease is slowing their drop when released or if "The dog & anvil" needs adjusting to let the bar push in to its extreme. Does it happen soon after pulling the handle. If you don't know "The dog & anvil" put it in the search box above, there's plenty about it on this forum.

Incidentally, and purely to avoid confusion due to terminology.
Those are called The Stops and not The Brakes.
The Brakes are three slender wires that are fitted at the back of the mech and are in constant contact with the hub on each reel and stop them from spinning too fast, without stopping them.

BP

[mickeyblue]

Thanks for the feedback. Apologies for incorrect naming, I'm very new to this.

I've recorded 3 videos... I've removed the reels to hopefully give you all a better look at things.







Thanks

Mike

[mickeyblue]

Additional

I'm thinking that maybe the "feet" part of the stops are slightly bent to the side.. as I figure reel 1 stops foot should be in that u shaped hole on far right... reel 2 is about right and 3 should follow the little extra bit of metal that extends out..

What do people think ?

[treefrog]

You might be right. It looks like they may have been bent previously. Maybe the middle one needs to be further over to the left, but I cannot see the ridges properly on the timing bar. The timing bar should her steps for each of the brake arms, graduated based on the order.