Rotamints

[tazmantic]

Cheers for the reply. Funny thing is, I just bought a Luxus off the same people and lo and behold the back on that one has the Duett drawings. They must have got the cases mixed up. lol The thing is, I now need some lamps and the company I found on the inter web are out of 6v 3w festoon lamps but have 5w. Is it going to make that much difference?

[pennymachines]

Perhaps you could take a picture of the Duett diagram for Resources?

[tazmantic]

Yep sure thing second I get a chance

[glittering-prize67]

I don't think 5 watt will make much difference - they are not on long. They will get warmer and, if on all the time, I would say not to use as it will melt plastic switches and peel the artwork. I think all German machines only illuminate when playing and most games last 15 secs. You could try LED ones but check whether the lamp supply is AC or DC. LEDs will only work with DC. If they don't light, simply turn them 'round.

[fantaz]

Topic merged - Site Admin.

On Friday I bought a Rotamint Super.

It needs some restoration and they moved or never mounted the banner.
Can someone help me finding wiring diagram of this slot?
Obviously I am looking for the Rotamint Super original banner but, I know, is impossible to find.
Fantaz

[jonesthegarage]

Print this picture and take it to your local sign maker. They maybe can make a laser cut banner from this.

https://www.automatix-club.de/index.php ... &Itemid=37

[pennymachines]

Another one here: https://www.groschengrab.electromance.d ... super1.jpg
In a few years I reckon these will be easy to do on a 3D printer.

[badpenny]

Wouldn't it be ironic if the next generation of 3D printers move on from plastic to metal, and end up utilising Pot Metal due to its low melting point?

[slotalot]

What a good idea!!
I like a man who thinks outside of the box
What I would like to know is...who let you out of the box??

[badpenny]

The man who pointed out to me that it couldn't be ironic as there is no iron in Pot Metal ...... damn and blast his eyes!

[tazmantic]

As promised Diagrams added to Resources.

[fantaz]

Yesterday I did some further restoration to the Rotamint Super. The slot did not pay prize so I decided to take down the wheels and restore the "rolling" contacts. It was a skilled job because the contact is made by steel sphere and little springs, some spheres were missing and I put some copper wire between the springs to get the contact.

Here are some photos of the operation.

One of the wheels

wheel repair 2.jpg (16.35 KiB) Viewed 4293 times

The front mechanism without the wheel

wheel repair 3.jpg (20.82 KiB) Viewed 4293 times

The stay of one wheel where the spheres roll

wheel repair 4.jpg (13.46 KiB) Viewed 4293 times

The back side of one wheel after the restoration, you can see the two little spheres

wheel repair 5.jpg (18.12 KiB) Viewed 4293 times

The inner part of a wheel, you can see the two iron pivot that will sustain the spheres

wheel repair 7.jpg (20.36 KiB) Viewed 4293 times

Now the springs are inserted, I added the copper wire to ensure the contact

wheel repair 8.jpg (21.44 KiB) Viewed 4293 times

Here I hold down the cap

wheel repair 9.jpg (18.17 KiB) Viewed 4293 times

The difficult thing was to reassemble the wheels, with the spring in the correct position, and then put the wheels back preventing the sphere to fall down.
It took me a lot of time but at the end the slot pays the prizes perfectly.

Now to finish the restoration I need to fix the motor.
It works, but every time I have to push the motor axle to the left.

motor problem 2.jpg (11.99 KiB) Viewed 4293 times

and when the play ends the axle is again to the full right.

motor problem 1.jpg (15.43 KiB) Viewed 4293 times

If I don't push the axle the motor is blocked and doesn't start.

Any suggestion?
Fantaz

[gav 999]

Topic merged - Site Admin.

Hi, I'm new here so hello to everyone! I've just acquired a Rotamint Gold machine which looks in good condition inside and out, but trips the RCD when plugged in. I read elsewhere in the forum (with the similar Rotamint Luxus) that this is often caused by the initial circuitry immediately after where the mains lead enters the cabinet and that this issue can be resolved by bypassing this part of the circuitry. I'd be grateful if anyone has any specific info on how to do this, as I'd really like to get this working. It looks like the circuitry mounted on the side of the cabinet containing fuses, capacitor etc. should be bypassed with power going directly to the main circuitry on the front of the cabinet, but I'd like to be more sure before experimenting with this! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks!

Photos of the machine and the initial circuitry which may help:

[badpenny]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

I've had a couple or three of these machines over the years and have never experienced what you describe unless there has been a short circuit.

I would be very wary about bypassing circuitry especially if it includes fuses etc. That sounds to me on a par with: -
"On the occasion that your dashboard ABS warning light comes on you should drive with your eyes closed."

If it were mine I would be tempted to examine all insulation for cracks which may allow a circuit to short.
Maybe the condenser is knacked, power surging?
I'd also unplug the machine and check by putting a continuity tester from the earth on the chassis to the positive and then the negative power sides and see if you get flicker. If you don't and still suspect a short circuit manually actuate the solenoids bringing other parts of the circuit into the equation. If you get a flicker you'll know which part of the circuit it's in.

Badpenny

[gav 999]

Thanks for your help that seems to be a safer approach!

There appears to be continuity between neutral and earth which may be causing the problem.

More investigation required...

[badpenny]

There's some nasty voltages running around in there, so continuity between the hot side and Earth is a bad thing and not to be taken lightly.

Investigate where wires pass through holes for chaffing. An RCD will trip so much quicker than a fuse will burn out.

Good luck

BP

[operator bell]

It is actually safe to bypass that thing, as all it does is reduce electrical interference. If you want to keep the fuses in place and make minimal changes you could just remove the capacitor at the top, which if I'm not mistaken has two leads on the right and one on the left. The one on the left goes to a red wire, which - this being a pre-EU German machine - is earth. This is most like where the leakage will be occurring that upsets the circuit breaker.

[gav 999]

Thanks for that. After doing a bit more research I found that the capacitor at the top usually needs to be removed or replaced in Rotamints. So I removed it and at least its no longer tripping the RCD but there are no signs of life. There is a break in continuity in the live wiring somewhere between the end of the smoothing circuit and the transformer. With a bit more investigation I should be able to track down where the problem is. Hopefully!

[coppinpr]

Topic merged - Site Admin.

Just finished restoring this unusual NSM Rotomint Silber(Silver). Sold to me as not working I was a little worried as electrics are not my strong point but ive got other Rotomints so I took a chance(it was cheap) . Lucky for me all the problems with the machine were mechanical and the electrics are perfect. After removing the reels and cleaning/lubricating them and freeing up the reel brakes (the most common mechanical fault you come across on these) the machine works perfectly except for the restart buttons,they have clearly been disconnected by an operator but they seem to be all there so I might look at reconnecting them. The case was very tatty on the wooden sides but I restored that area well and its perfect now. The formica was pretty good but was peeling away at the base and had scratches. I glued the area that was peeling back into place and its gone back nicely . I tried furniture crayons to take out the scratches but they didint work at all on Formica, then I found a bottle of drink ring remover and that was amazing,the scratches are quite simply gone! The glass is,of course, what makes this 1961 machine unusual, I dont know of another machine quite like it,and this glass is pristine. I have the original locks,but no keys even so I think Ill leave them in anyway . I think it very likely this machine will be part of my batch for the Coventry auction

[badpenny]

I do like the cartoon as well. Not seen one of those before.

BP