Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

[slotalot]

It seems as if it had a better spring it would work,the slide has a straight Edgar to it and after altering the spring it paid out for a short time.now the spring has stretched again and the slide is resting short of where it should be this also means the contacts are not touching when in the rest position I have been to a couple of hardware shops but they haven't any springs and the one on my machine is not an original or a good copy

Good.... it sounds as if you are almost there..
Can you tell me if when the display stops on a winning position, is the pay out immediately as it stops? or is there a second or two delay before the pay out?? I ask this because the bell makes up part of the delay timer circuit, this circuit gives the player time to see what he has won before the lights move on with each pay out pulse.

[junior]

It seems as though it paid straight away. On one occasion it stopped on 14paid immediately and tripped into 9 . On another when I released the button to make it stop it kept going for another couple of seconds.only 2incidents in about 130 goes I will give it another 52 goes tomorrow to see if it's the same win ratio and to check if there is a time delay or not upon winning if the spring isn't working properly I will make sure contacts are touching as if in rest position each time after winning

[slotalot]

From what you tell me, the only thing now that is stopping payout delay and the bell ringing (once you have sorted the new spring) is the thermal overload contact being normally open all the time. It is quite a delicate bit of kit and a bit on the small side to work on. Please see attached photos.
This unit has a bimetallic strip with a heater coil and a normally closed contact on one end. On landing on a winning position, the power is fed through the normally closed contact, to the bell and the heater coil. The bell will start to ring and the heater coil will warm up. After a second or two, the bimetallic strip will bend, opening the normally closed contact, the bell will stop and the payout slide will start to operate.
The thermal overload unit has a small adjusting screw on it. It is possible that someone has over tightened this screw and bent the bimetallic strip making the contact permanently open. Working on this needs great care and good eyesight.

[badpenny]

slotalot .....

You once explained all of this to me and I found it fascinating then, but why are there two of them?

What does the one on the right do?

BP

[slotalot]

Hi Mr BP..
The second one is wired in with the push button on the front of the door. If when you push the button to start the machine running it was to stick in, or you deliberately held the button in, the machine would "time out" after a few seconds via the bi-metal strip bending and breaking the circuit to the push-button. It is just a fail-safe device...

[badpenny]

Thanks Big S .......

Now you've said that I have a vague recollection (all my memories are that way) of you already saying that while I nodded in a sage like manner.
So chances are you'd already told me once.
I have your website Slotmachines saved so give me a couple of months and I'll mail you to ask you what the second Bi-metal switch does.

BP

[slotalot]

Don't worry I have total recall over matters like this..................................what was the question again??

[junior]

On the left hand thermal overload contact there's a pink wire about 50 mm long not contacted to anything. There are also pink wires joined up and green wires joined up and a single black wire - why?

[slotalot]

OK, What we need to do now is check the state of that thermal overload. Do you have an ohm meter / test meter of any kind??
These thermal overloads were not very reliable, even when new, and the heater coils tended to burn out if something in the circuit shorted out. To test if the heater coil is OK I need you to disconnect one of the wires on the terminal of the bell itself, then take your meter and check the resistance across the heater coil. This should be done between terminals "A" & "C" (see attached drawing). Also at this point do the same check on the other thermal overload (the one to its right). Both units should read about 40 ohms each. If you don't get a reading we have a bit of a problem...
Once you have done the test, replace the wire on the bell.
Let me know how you get on.

[junior]

Hi,took wire off bell and checked both thermal blocks the right hand one is reading 41 ohms and the left hand is reading 50 ohms other terminals have been tested.The screw that goes to the bimetallic strip was really overtight so I took it out and fitted it again just loosely.

[slotalot]

Hi,took wire off bell and checked both thermal blocks the right hand one is reading 41 ohms and the left hand is reading 50 ohms other terminals have been tested.The screw that goes to the bimetallic strip was really overtight so I took it out and fitted it again just loosely.

OK, If your ohms readings are correct there is a good chance that the thermal blocks are OK and just need adjusting
Now you have removed and refitted the adjusting screw, the bimetal strip, and possibly the top contact might require straightening so that the set of contacts "B" & "C" are closed, take great care here as the heater wire is wrapped around the bimetal strip and is VERY-VERY fragile.
Once you have done this we can sort out and re solder the wires to their correct terminals on the thermal unit...

TERMINAL "A" Should be connected to the black wire.

TERMINAL "B" Should be connected to the grey wire that comes from the right hand switch on the pay out slide, and also to the orange wire that goes to the right hand uniselectors. There may be an orange wire going to both uniselectors, make sure you get the correct one.

TERMINAL "C" Should be connected to the orange wire that goes to the coil on relay No.3, and also the orange wire that goes to the bell.
The pink wire should not be connected to the thermal unit at all.

Hopefully if no other alterations have been made in the past your machine should be fully working

[junior]

Left hand thermal wiring
A-black going to relay 4
B-pink going 2 directions 1-right hand uniselector
1-right hand payout contact on door
C-green going to relay 3 and on to bell

[junior]

The thermal contact is touching.

[slotalot]

Looks like someone has swapped some wires around at some time
Look at the right hand switch on the pay out slide, is there a pink wire on one contact and a grey wire on the other contact??
if so where does the grey wire lead to??

[junior]

Yep, the pink wire is on right hand side and the grey is on the left hand of the payout slide the grey wire then goes to relay number3

[slotalot]

Yep, the pink wire is on right hand side and the grey is on the left hand of the payout slide the grey wire then goes to relay number3

OK, the wires are different colours to the normal set up, but they appear to connected to the correct terminals

Have a look at relay 3, does the grey wire from the pay out slide go to one side of the COIL on relay3??

and then does it come off the coil on relay 3 and go to one of the contacts on relay 3??

Then from the other side of that contact on relay 3 does it go back via a white wire to the left hand switch on the pay out slide??

Then does the other side of the left hand switch on the pay out slide connect to the red wire??

[jonesthegarage]

Have a look at relay 3, does the grey wire from the pay out slide go to one side of the COIL on relay3??

and then does it come off the coil on relay 3 and go to one of the contacts on relay 3??

Then from the other side of that contact on relay 3 does it go back via a white wire to the left hand switch on the pay out slide??

Then does the other side of the left hand switch on the pay out slide connect to the red wire??

Stuart, were you ever a caller for the hokey cokey, or maybe it's just me that sees a certain rhythmic quality in your latest guide

[slotalot]

Stuart, were you ever a caller for the hokey cokey, or maybe it's just me that sees a certain rhythmic quality in your latest guide

You could be right Mick
But we haven't quite got to the part were it wont work and you shake it all about yet.. ....LOL.

[slotalot]

I have done a quick drawing of the part of the circuit that controls the bell/delay on the pay out, from everything else that we have checked, this is the part of the circuit that is at fault, if all the wires are in the correct place according to this drawing, and all the contacts are in their normally open or normally closed state at rest, and the heater wire is OK, then on a winning position the bell should ring for a short time before the pay out starts to operate
I hope this helps to clarify what you need to be looking for??

[junior]

Thanks I will have a go tomorrow I think that short pink wire might as well be cut off