Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

American, British, French or German? We want to know about it.
Potless
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Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

A quick update - the blue wire COULD reach across to the left hand uniselector (when they are mounted to the back board of the case) - but where it connects to is still a mystery!
garythegolfer
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Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by garythegolfer »

There is a MK 2 wiring diagram here published by "Slotalot" which should help:
download/file.php?id=2559
The Roto-Pool Manual
Potless
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Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

Thanks, I did study it before, but will check again in case I missed anything.
Potless
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Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

Having checked the 1st and 2nd versions of the manuals, it seems to me that the model I have has a rather different wiring design to those shown. Nothing seems to tally with the expected wiring connections - so maybe this is a variant that was made in the factory, or it has been modified somewhat (although there is not much evidence of rewires, etc). Oh well, I will have to delve deeper!
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Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by badpenny »

I'd hazard a guess that it was wired to suit the selector they had at the time.

BP :!?!:
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brigham
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Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by brigham »

I'll second that!
Potless
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Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

OK - mystery solved - it didn't occur ro me that the blue wire actually connects to the blue wire feeding uniselector 2's solenoid coil, hence its length. I had assumed that the wire needed to be connected to uniselector 1 as in the diagrams, but in this case, not so.

Another one for the unusual variations file!
Potless
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Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

Roto-Games Time-Delay Relay Problem Solved (?)

I have just repaired an Electrodart machine that has been in storage for years, waiting for a replacement time delay relay (the troublesome and rare "cutout" that so often burns out).

I am happy to say that my machine is now working, using a different type of time delay relay that nobody seems to have discovered before – an Amperite 26C2T, which looks just like a valve, but in fact is just a bi-metal strip and separate heater element in a glass envelope. My Electrodart has a dc supply of around 26 volts, and the relay is rated at 22-30V - it works like a dream. It gives a delay time of 2 seconds, which is quite adequate if you don’t want to drive the rest of the household crazy with the ringing of the bell (I couldn't find any with delays of less than this). The photo shows the unit installed in my machine, and held in place with a jubilee clip. These things are built like brick outhouses, and should be a lot less prone to burnout than the original GPO units.

For those who have nearer to 50V dc supplies, you may be able to find a 50C2T type (9-pin), or 50C2 octal type, both of which operate on 42-58V, although these seem a lot less plentiful than the type I used. Note that a normally-closed contact type is required (the ”C" in the middle of the type number denotes this).

Note that these units are available with octal valve pinouts, and standard 9-pin valve pinouts (the latter being most common). The attached data sheet (see bottom of post) shows the variants available (although these are now obsolete, but new old stock should be discoverable on the net). The last letter in the code denotes the type (blank for octal, T for 9-pin).

You will of course need a suitable valve base for soldering the wires to, as the glass envelope could break if the pins are soldered to directly. You can get these on eBay, or anywhere that sells valve accessories.

I only replaced the relay that times the bell ring, and didn't bother to get one for the pushbutton timing circuit, but I may do at a later date. The one I got cost me £11.98 including postage/packing. The valve base was £2.54 with post.
Attachments
amperite.jpg
amperite td relays.pdf
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special when lit
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Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by special when lit »

Good solution, Potless. As someone with 3 'flasher' type machines, that's good to know.
oneswitch500
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Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by oneswitch500 »

Very promising fix. This is the thing wrong with my Electro-Dart. Mine runs at 32v DC. Would you recommend putting an extra resistor in, or might this not work, would you predict?
Potless
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Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

As it's only 2v more than the recommended maximum voltage for a 26C2T, it probably wouldn't cause any problems - they are very robust units and should be able to cope with it, with perhaps a small reduction in service life.

I'm not sure if inserting a series resistor would affect operation of the circuit - maybe someone could enlighten us?
tallstory
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Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by tallstory »

If you know the resistance (or current) of the unit then it's easy to calculate the resistor (and wattage) of the resistor using Ohms Law (V=IR). Adding this would not cause any operational issues except the heat the resistor would generate. But like Potless, I very much doubt that a 2V excess would cause any problems without the additional resistor. The give-away would be if unit got hot.
Potless
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Re: Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.

Post by Potless »

Yes, my relay runs very cool in operation, so any overheating should be immediately noticeable.
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