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Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart, Bingola, etc.
Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 10:11 pm
(Several Roto-Pool, Roto-Fruit, Rotolite, Electrodart. Bingola, etc. topics merged - Site Admin)
I have just taken delivery of an old electro-mechanical wall machine called Electrodart (once common in the arcades in the 'fifties and 'sixties).
Although cosmetically very good (has an excellent backglass and wooden case) it has a couple of problems electrically, so I was wondering if anybody had a wiring diagram that I could borrow, buy or copy - this is probably a tall order, but perhaps someone out there has some information, no matter how small?
Any help would be greatly appreciated - thanks in anticipation.
Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 12:26 pm
I'm afraid I can't help - although I've had a few of these over the years, I don't have one now. There are several cosmetically different but technically similar games - Rotolite, Electrofruit come to mind. Your best bet may be to get together with a collector who owns a working example. The other route is to find a competant electician who likes tinkering. These machines are not very challenging to someone with a basic knowledge of electronics (that counts me out).
The crucial thing is the glass is in top condition. That's the hardest part to fix!
The manufacturer of these games took advantage of a flood of ex-GPO surplus components (relays etc.) that became available when the telecommunications system was upgraded.
I don't think I've seen any paperwork on these - but who knows? I'm constantly impressed by what other members of this forum come up with.
Slotalot's Roto Pool Wiring Diagram now in Resources (01/03/10)
Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 12:32 pm
Thanks a lot for the info - I am an electronics technician, but I am baffled over this one, because it has been re-wired a fair amount. The push button start/stop has been replaced with a stop only button, so there are lots of wires now redundant. I would like to restore it to its original state if possible, but I may have to wait a while until I can get hold of one to compare the innards with!
Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 1:48 pm
Sorry, I can't help either. I've had one of these in the past and eventually gave up trying to repair it. About a year ago someone was selling one with the manufacturer's circuit diagram. Unfortunately, the new owner never replied to my emails for a copy. I am sure someone in Pennymachines must be able to track down a circult diagram. Good luck - Cheeky!
Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 4:14 pm
Thanks for trying! I knew it wouldn't be easy to find information, but as you say, if anyone has it, this is the place to track it down....
Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2006 3:35 pm
Just a thought - I don't think the button should be a start-stop button.
The light sequence starts as soon as you insert your coin. The "skill" button just stops the lights at whatever position they've reached when you push it.
Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2006 3:38 pm
The front panel glass has the words "Push to start, release to stop", so I assume it originally had a double pole switch fitted.
Perhaps later models had a single pole switch?
Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2006 8:37 pm
Oh. I was going on what I remember about the Rotolite. Seems the Electrodart is different.
Now someone will tell me I'm wrong about the Rotolite too.
Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 9:35 pm
Hi my name is Dave, just joined because I think I can help you.
I have an Electrodart in good origional working order, that may help you in some way. Email me via work and we can see if I can help.
Dave Hill (email removed to prevent Spam: Site Admin)
Talk to you soon
Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 9:40 am
Just a quick update on progress with repairs - thanks to Dave Hill's excellent photographs, I have gathered some more clues concerning the operation of the unit (even though his was a later model with more relays inside!).
It seems that the play switch had been replaced in my machine, and was of the wrong type (should have been a push to make, single pole switch).
The only problems I have now are:
A. The unit does not pay out on winning numbers, and
B. Both of the overload cutouts have burned out (they appear to have a thermal coil arrangement, wound around a thermally sensitive metal strip, which breaks contact when the coil heats up through excess current flow) see attached photo. They cannot be replaced by modern circuit breakers, because they have a three terminal arrangement.
I suspect that the non-payout problem is connected to these faulty cutouts. Is there a possibility that someone could measure the resistance of a cutout coil in their machine, so that I can wind some new coils from ni-chrome wire? Even better, if anyone has two complete cutouts they can sell me, I will gladly purchase them.
I also notice that the bell is missing from my machine - presumably this rang when a winning number came up?
Any assistance will be received with grateful thanks!