Wulf Bandit Manual and parts

[andyb53]

Thank you BP It is a start for me. I usually restore old electromechanical Pinballs to concours condition so this is a new adventure for me. The "Monkey Metal" (as everyone refers to is probably Mazag it is basically all the crap left over. Used in the casings of Jennings machines also. Never attempt to bet it Chromed. It will cost a fortune. It will stick but quickly falls off. Believe it or not it DOES superglue very very well! Do you know anyone with a "Pecker Arm" for sale by any chance. and does anyone have any manuals or service information for these machines? Kindest regards

Andy B

[coppinpr]

no need to tell us about pot metal andy, over the years we have stuck it,riveted it,replaced it, cursed it and talked nicely to it...nothing helps,except replacing it

one of the biggest problems with it on these German machines is when the payout slides have been drilled out to take the old penny after being imported,it leaves the shoulders on the slide to narrow and they snap over the years.

The reason they used it on these machines was that by German law these machines had to scrapped or exported after only 5 years(not sure if it was 5 ,Mr P will put me right) so they haven't done bad,still chugging away after 60 years

[badpenny]

Andy .....

I don't know about Super-glue in general, however I have had an element of success with the latest epoxy resins.
I've found you really need to let it delaminate and flex with cracks and gaps showing.
After painting the gunge in lay it on greaseproof paper with another sheet on top and lay weight on top or place in a vice to keep the shape until it goes off.
If you look back at the photo I posted of my Primus you'll see one of my earlier attempts. I did that about ten years ago and was too nervous to clean it back. It's still as strong as the day I repaired it.

Most would be surprised that even this Handle Cam Casing is in the condition of parts I often repair. I would do it, if I had the missing bits (that's only half of what there should be), but it has the potential to be straightened, strengthened and used again.

Coppin is being generous giving them a life of 5 years .... it was only 3!

No I don't know of one for sale, you need to find someone breaking a case. There is someone on this forum who has a mass of stuff, no need to ask him, he has read this and if he has anything he will offer.
I'd suggest you're really needing the whole Penny Double Casting complete with Coin Pecker and its assembly, to save you endlessly coming back asking for the other bit too.

As for maintenance, I've not seen a manual. Basically so long as it does what it should don't tamper with any adjustment screws. There are two obvious ones. The Payout Control Lever is one and the Clock Control Lever is the other. If you have issues with either of those areas come back to us.
Don't put any grease anywhere, if there is already grease on it, then clean it off.
If it moves, then oil it (3 in 1 type)
However do not oil anywhere a coin touches or travels in. Especially not The Payout Slides.
An area that gets ignored are the tiny bearings on the backplate of the clock, don't be tempted to remove the plastic cover and over oil the clock mechanism, it will stop the clock.

Once you've gotten the coin gate problem solved, if you still need a cash box, I can measure one up if you want.

BP

[andyb53]

Hi there BP Looking further at you picture the part that is missing is the cast arm directly below the white arrow. (It has a horizontal spring attached) It is totally smashed with a bit missing. Would you know of anyone with a spare? I also relise I need a coin rejector as the one on the machine has been doctored. You could pit anything in and it would work!

[badpenny]

Oh dear, another missing part .....
That's why I suggested you need to source the whole Penny Double Casting complete with Coin Pecker and its assembly, in my last post.
The casting you're now talking about is "The Coin Holder". It blocks the gate that the coin sits in and is spring loaded. The Pecker comes in over the top of the coin and pushes it down against the coin holder, this is what releases The Handle Plate below allowing the handle to engage with the mechanism.
Near the bottom of the handle's stroke The Pecker overcomes the spring attached to the "The Coin Holder" and the coin squeezes through to the payout tube. The Handle Plate then disengages so the handle needs another coin to play again (basically)

These links aren't likely to help I'm afraid but they are to The German websites, consequently guess what language they're in?
http://www.antik-automaten.de/wbb2/index.php
http://www.antik-automaten.de/wbb2/thre ... threadid=6
http://www.automatix-club.de/index.php? ... &Itemid=37

I have found my Philip Shefras Parts List for Gunter Wulff Wall Bandits (which is how I've known the proper names for these parts in my last couple of posts)

PS ~ I've just reread your last post, are you saying "The only part missing" is the "The Coin Holder". and that The Coin Pecker is actually there?
BP