FORUM

Thank you pennymachines, that would be perfect. I would rather follow a template than struggle with guessing it It will take me a week or two to sort out the casing anyway. Mei-mei

Hi, well finally got round to taking the back off of this machine and woah what a mess inside. Happily the glass is in great condition considering (pic 1), but needs a careful cleaning. The bits I thought were missing are actually there, they were hidden behind about a million broken pieces of yellowed Perspex (pic 2). As expected all the screws are well and truly welded in place so having to improvise getting to the bits I need to restore. Still would be helpful to have that pic of the inside when you have a mo as I think some of the metal track is missing. Next job, down to Wickes for fine sanding paper!

I can't be certain because of the foliage but I can't see any track missing. I can see one slightly out of line but the way the track is made and the condition of the glass I think you won't have too bad a job bringing this one round.

Thanks coppiner, could you let me know which one is missing? Mei-mei

Like I said, I can't see any missing. The first one on the left in the photo might be a little out of place, unless it's been mounted like that at the game start point.

Thanks again coppinpr, will give it a wiggle and see if it has moved. Mei-mei

The track on your playfield looks to be in better nick than the one I was going to photograph.

Hi pennymachines. Looks in this case are absolutely deceiving! As you can see from the pic I have cleared all the debris away and given it a first sanding. The track is 'broken' in many places and when I gave it the wiggle test, several of the pieces were found to be held in position by one secured point so rotate when touched. If I understand it correctly, the track is held in place by small nuts and bolts through the metal back plate. I am giving some serious thought about painting the back board with the track in place, then removing the track and using the shadow of it to replace the track with a more robust one. Only issue there is that the bolts like everything else is rusted to hell and getting them out will be a nightmare. Also getting replacement bolts could prove tricky? What you think? Mei-mei

The only question I have is are the tracks rotten? because if they are not then I think it's a big mistake to replace them. Try to keep the machine as original as possible unless you have to replace a part, that's why I like to work on machines in a very bad state, then I don't feel bad about re painting or replacing.

If you intend to paint the back board with the tracks in place and they are not rotten then repair them. If there is an actual broken one then remake that one. If any are loose and only held by one bolt drill a new hole in a new place on the track piece,all the way through the back board, for the second bolt and simply use a new similar bolt.
If you do need to remove a track and the nut and bolt are totally rusted together cut the nut off with something like a Dremel metal cutting disc.

Again, the tracks on mine are worse than yours. The question is what causes them to fracture like this. I haven't investigated yet, but either the plastic has chemically deteriorated (seems likely) or it has cracked because of thermal expansion of the metal backing to which it's attached - or a bit of both.

Because the track must, above all, be smooth for the game to play well, I would (and will) remake it, using the original as a template. Modern plastics are more chemically stable and by making the fixing holes slightly larger than the bolts that go through them, problems with differential expansion could be avoided.

One option for accurately recording the position of the original tracks prior to replacement might be to score into the metal backing with a sharp implement following the existing track contours.

Hi, thanks guys, all useful info. Problem with keeping the original track is that it will result in many gaps and possible trip up points for the penny to negotiate. Plus the fact that the track is so brittle, I'm not sure it will stand me drilling through it. I think that pennymachines is correct and this early type of plastic has a limited shelf life a bit like the mass of yellowed plastic bits I presume was once a barrier between the glass and the pennies, there to protected the back painting of the imagery. Another slight problem is that at some time the previous owner has stuck a second piece of glass over the original. At a guess I think he tried to protect the imagery from damage, or maybe there is a hairline crack that I haven't spotted yet. Unfortunately dirt and water have seeped between the two layers leaving yellow streaks that I would really like to clean, but I'm terrified if I take the two layers apart that it will damage the image further. I could try the method I used to repair the back painted fortune teller machine that I have, but that would mean having a reproduction image instead of the original. This is truly driving me nuts? Mei-mei

Seems that the track has deteriorated to the point of replacement then. Mr P, question, would it not be possible to fret saw new tracks out of wood? Would this be easier? Also, is there any reason why you couldn't mark the track line with a white board pen if it's being painted in advance of removing the tracks as it just wipes off?
I bet the second glass was added to replace the disintegrated plastic one. Could be a disaster separating them as you say.

Thanks coppinpr, it is great to be able to chew these problems over with someone else. Using fret sawn wood for the track could work as the machine shouldn't get a great deal of use, so wear and tear would not be an issue. I still think I could give the right angled plastic a try, it would be easy enough to bend and fit in one piece. I'm going to take the glass to a glazier mate and see if he has any suggestions. If all else fails I can get the image scanned and printed onto another piece of glass, shame but if there is too much damage sometimes you just have to bite the bullet! MM

Hi mei-mei


I expect you have spotted this at the E H Auction today, but thought it worth posting this picture on this thread as they appear to be from the same stable

Thanks Bryans fan, Wow I wish mine was in as good a condition. I guess they made these over a long period of time. Anyone know when they first started making this type of machine? MM

The earliest version I know of appears to be 1930s and, as is often the way with these things, was the most attractive. Unlike the later ones, it's wider than it's tall, and the cabinet incorporates a clubhouse on top. The only example I've seen is pictured in the showroom image on the front of the 1930s Bolland's Amusement Machine Supply Co. catalogue.

Last year however, what appeared to be the innards from a similar game was sold in New Zealand:

Several versions were made with different graphics, but usually following the same basic design, even down to the old car driving away, bottom right.
I've put a couple of glasses in Resources.
I think the Peerless Golf may be by Peerless Novelty Co. and the Nine Holes says,

Protected Registered British Design Nos. 837474 & 337774 - U.S.A. Registered Design No. D 8?243 Modele Deposé. FOR AMUSEMENT ONLY MFD. BY BCM/MMMM LONDON.W.C.1

I've also put a few examples of these games in the Museum. The Nine Holes shows the stand and coin return tray as it probably existed on yours originally. See also Rolling Home (unsold in last Sunday's auction) and the metal-cased Mastermatics Master Golf Game.

I was tempted with the EH one as it did look nice although not sure how much had been replaced or restored. Also the minimum bid seemed to be £200, which seemed reasonable to me and maybe if you contact Steve it could still be available. They are big old things though, but entertaining....

The same machine sold for over £600 previously at the Elephant House. Some folk playing it before the sale were clearly having fun, so I was surprised when it couldn't get a bid at £200.

coppinpr wrote: ↑Sat Jul 29, 2017 8:26 pm Would it not be possible to fret saw new tracks out of wood? Would this be easier? Also is there any reason why you couldn't mark the track line with a white board pen if it's being painted in advance of removing the tracks as it just wipes off?

Hardwood's not very stable at the required thickness and ply will not present a very smooth edge, even after sanding. It can also splinter a bit and warp if damp. I see no reason not to use suitable thickness sheet plastic. It's probably easier to scroll saw than wood.

To get a really clean, smooth backplate, I'd remove the track before rubbing down and respraying.

Hi,
"Protected Registered British Design Nos. 837474 & 337774 - U.S.A. Registered Design No. D 8?243 Modele Deposé. FOR AMUSEMENT ONLY MFD. BY BCM/MMMM LONDON.W.C.1".

I did wonder if it was a type of trade simulator as there seems to be no other payout when you win. I just love the look of the original with the club house on top, so typical of that era. Does this also mean that it was made in the good old US of A?

The guy I bought this from did mention a table that had been lost in his moving house so it is possible it is as early as the one you have posted. There is however a small label on the glass that says 'Master golf' which is confusing as this is not a metal model? MM

Hi, further to my last email. I am fortunate to have an old peddle driven fret saw and as it has a very fine blade, it should be easy enough to cut a plastic track for the penny. I am excited at the thought of getting started over the weekend. MM