Electroplating (chrome, nickel etc.)
Re: Chrome through the post?
Try Prestige Platers in Mexbrough, they do a lot of vintage car & motorcycle stuff, both polishing and plating. Prices are reasonable and they will post out no problem. Very slow turnround however, due to volume of work, so be prepared to wait a month or 2!
Re: Chrome through the post?
Malc, have you tried London and Brighton plating Co. in North St. Portslade. I have used them a few times and found them to be okay, turnaround about 7-10 days. Not sure if they do a postal service though but reasonably local for you. Kevin Button (director) is the chap to speak to on 01273 418122.
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Re: Chrome through the post?
Thanks Rebel, that's not too far from me either so thanks for this. Malc
Re: Chrome through the post?
Just to add to the list, Ashford Chrome do a postal service... a handle is around £30 + postage. They just need photos pinged to them for an online quote.
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Re: Chrome through the post?
Does everyone find that chromers copper first? I've used one for some bits which don't copper, but on brass I guess that isn't much of an issue.
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Re: RE-CHROME
Only one I know is in Kent, perhaps too far but they are good, not too expensive, and offer a post it and post it back service. You take photos, tell them the weight and they give you a quote by email. Haven't got the name here but easy to find if you search the net. I'm sure they are in mid Kent.
Re: RE-CHROME
Thanks for the info coppinpr Still rather deal with someone closer to home if poss tho.
Re: RE-CHROME
I would pop into your local Classic Motorcycle or Car shop and ask them who they use. You will often find there is someone local who handles this work, deals with the preparation, polishing etc. and takes the stuff in batches to a registered plater. I have always understood the preparation work to be where most of the cost is.
Worth getting different quotes though. The Kent one I believe is Ashford Chromers who, as stated, do online quotes based on a picture you send and you can compare with someone local. Worth asking for examples of their work, which is why Classic restorers are a good place to start.
Worth getting different quotes though. The Kent one I believe is Ashford Chromers who, as stated, do online quotes based on a picture you send and you can compare with someone local. Worth asking for examples of their work, which is why Classic restorers are a good place to start.
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Re: RE-CHROME
IMO there is no such thing as a cheap rechrome that is actually half decent. The labour/effort is in the prep and polishing. Pay cheap, you will get awful pitted shiny rubbish returned; been there and worn the T-shirt. Never again.
Once chroming was a relatively cheap process in back alley businesses but, since the 'elf and safety people got involved, finding chromers is difficult and as such when you do come across one they often have little competition to worry about in regards to negotiating their prices. As suggested, what are you having chromed? We might be able to give you some ballpark figures from our experiences.
Half the problem with buying old Aristos and Jubilees, you can get them really cheap but to rechrome them you end up with something costing you three times as much as you paid for it. As example, a Sega lightup cash tray, for a decent job I wouldn't get much change out of £70 down my way. God knows how much a Jennings would cost for a full rechrome?!?! I guess that is the attraction of buying a Mills Hi Top etc. They seem expensive, however, the only chrome you might have to worry about is the handle and collar.
Malc. P.S. My Sega light up, the local guy told me he took four hours of labour to flatten the pitting on the cash try. That's just one part alone. I reckon I got a good price.
Once chroming was a relatively cheap process in back alley businesses but, since the 'elf and safety people got involved, finding chromers is difficult and as such when you do come across one they often have little competition to worry about in regards to negotiating their prices. As suggested, what are you having chromed? We might be able to give you some ballpark figures from our experiences.
Half the problem with buying old Aristos and Jubilees, you can get them really cheap but to rechrome them you end up with something costing you three times as much as you paid for it. As example, a Sega lightup cash tray, for a decent job I wouldn't get much change out of £70 down my way. God knows how much a Jennings would cost for a full rechrome?!?! I guess that is the attraction of buying a Mills Hi Top etc. They seem expensive, however, the only chrome you might have to worry about is the handle and collar.
Malc. P.S. My Sega light up, the local guy told me he took four hours of labour to flatten the pitting on the cash try. That's just one part alone. I reckon I got a good price.
Re: RE-CHROME
Hi gents,
It's the top front plate of a Governor. The rest of the machine is fine, just that piece is heavily pitted and scratched.
Of course if anyone has a nice condition one up for grabs, I'd be interested
It's the top front plate of a Governor. The rest of the machine is fine, just that piece is heavily pitted and scratched.
Of course if anyone has a nice condition one up for grabs, I'd be interested
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Re: RE-CHROME
Best of luck chap. I've never had any success having Jennings replated. I believe the secret is something to do with having the Ally plated in something else first, otherwise it just shrugs it.
The other way round it is to take up stamp collecting instead.
The other way round it is to take up stamp collecting instead.
Re: RE-CHROME
I've just about given up rechroming ali parts due to the cost & the hit or miss finish. In the past I've had flaking reoccuring after a couple of months. The platers say that it is due to the content of the 'pot' used in the original cast & the humidity where the plated part is stored. If oxidisation is present, (white dust), it will come back eventually. The lower casting is even harder to replate because the plating and polishing tools can't get into the grooves & corners. Also it is a die-cast piece which is very intolerant of mechanical pressure (just try dropping one & see what falls off!)
The earlier post about getting the pre work right is correct, even before you take the part to the workshop for plating. You will take far more time and care in the prep than the trade will.
Replating a Lite up cash tray?.. Forget it in my opinion, if the rust doesn't come back through, then the coins will chip away at the chrome. If you spend £70 + replating a £150 machine, will a new buyer pay the premium?
Hammer paint & live with the finish, same with Aristos. They are just not worth the bother & cost. Treat as you would with an old car panel: sand, fill, paint and polish, or just get the polishing mops on the metal. The result will be very acceptable. If you do manage to buy a real valuable gem, then treat accordingly.
I polish my Jennings parts & they look the business. I may have a couple of polished front tops we could deal on if you want to personal message me.
The earlier post about getting the pre work right is correct, even before you take the part to the workshop for plating. You will take far more time and care in the prep than the trade will.
Replating a Lite up cash tray?.. Forget it in my opinion, if the rust doesn't come back through, then the coins will chip away at the chrome. If you spend £70 + replating a £150 machine, will a new buyer pay the premium?
Hammer paint & live with the finish, same with Aristos. They are just not worth the bother & cost. Treat as you would with an old car panel: sand, fill, paint and polish, or just get the polishing mops on the metal. The result will be very acceptable. If you do manage to buy a real valuable gem, then treat accordingly.
I polish my Jennings parts & they look the business. I may have a couple of polished front tops we could deal on if you want to personal message me.
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Re: RE-CHROME
My chrome man didn't fancy tackling my Governor and suggested a polish. What a job he did and not really expensive.
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Re: RE-CHROME
I recently delivered some Jennings front and back bonnets for re-chroming. My man wants £95 a piece to do them. He always does a good job but this time he said they're the last he's prepared to do. Problem is, if the chrome doesn't take first time, he has to linish all the copper off and start over, and ends up losing money on the job. He did say for future work he can point me to a company that specializes in plating ali.
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Re: Re-Chrome
Gateros Plating looks like a promising UK source for all sorts of home plating and metal finishing products. As well as brass, bronze, copper, nickel and zinc, they sell a "Replica Chrome" plating kit, which, judging by the pictures, looks pretty effective, and requires less hazardous substances:
I'm tempted to give this a go. Anyone tried it already?
http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk
http://www.frost.co.uk
http://www.metalpolishingsupplies.co.uk
Ideal for DIY enthusiast, car or motorcycle restorer.
With this kit you will find it easy to get a bright mirror like finish with a hint of daylight just like chrome but without the problems associated with chrome plating. Replica Chrome will also give outstanding protection against corrosion. It also eliminates the need for a two step program like chrome...
The kit is easy to use as it is based on a Nickel alloy the finish is bright like chrome, keeps its shine like chrome and is harder than nickel. You can easily get outstanding results on various metals including steel, iron, brass, copper and if used in conjunction with the correct metallic spray it can also plate non metalic items, you can even plate on aluminium if used in conjunction with zincate. Setting up and getting started is easy, the plating process is quite quick with a typical 10 micron coating taking about 25 minutes...
Price £87 for a 5 ltr kit and £135 for a 9 ltr kit.
I'm tempted to give this a go. Anyone tried it already?
http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk
http://www.frost.co.uk
http://www.metalpolishingsupplies.co.uk
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