Electroplating (chrome, nickel etc.)

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ballymad
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by ballymad »

I've tried chrome sprays but most are purely decorative. The last one I tried, Halford's Chrome was a nice finish but smudged, so I rubbed it down, gave it two coats, then, disregarding instructions, sprayed it with a lacquer, only to watch the lacquer and paint run down the said article.
So back to the internet and found this "Supa Chrome" spray can from http://www.newfantachrome.com
Only thing, could not find a stockist or a price. Anybody seen it? or used it?
Looks quite good.



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treefrog
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by treefrog »

pennymachines wrote:Gateros Plating looks like a promising UK source for all sorts of home plating and metal finishing products. As well as brass, bronze, copper, nickel and zinc, they sell a "Replica Chrome" plating kit, which, judging by the pictures, looks pretty effective, and requires less hazardous substances:

I'm tempted to give this a go. Anyone tried it already?
Did anyone try this in the end, before I place an order?
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coppinpr
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by coppinpr »

ballymad wrote:I've tried chrome sprays but most are purely decorative. The last one I tried, Halford's Chrome was a nice finish but smudged, so I rubbed it down, gave it two coats, then, disregarding instructions, sprayed it with a lacquer, only to watch the lacquer and paint run down the said article.
So back to the internet and found this "Supa Chrome" spray can from https://www.newfantachrome.com
Only thing, could not find a stockist or a price. Anybody seen it? or used it?
Looks quite good
I've looked into this product and actually asked them about becoming a UK agent but no reply. There is no doubt this works, (if you can do a whole speedboat or car, then there must be something in it). Problem is, I don't know how good the spray cans are, the real results come from using their spray gun system. It's interesting the technique the operator uses. I've watched several videos and several coats are applied in one session with no break and there appears to be no run marks, because the liquid is water-based and very thin. The operator then polishes the finished item to a shine. They SAY it even feels like the real thing. I wonder though, if the propellant used in a spray can would thicken it up so much it caused runs. There is no doubt it would work on slot machines as an alternative to re-chroming if the price was cheap enough to make it an option.
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coppinpr
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by coppinpr »

Here are some good videos of the product:



jimmycowman
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by jimmycowman »

I would try it!! !!THUMBSX2!! Keep on their case !!CHEERS!!
toibs
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by toibs »

Not sure if you'd WANT to go this route. Whilst I did see the website, I got a reply....
Dear Paul,
Watch this aerosol application tutorial and let me know if you like it. It’s the most shining available on the market and really close to real chrome!



To get a good result you need to apply the chrome on a glossy surface (apply a glossy paint if it is not glossy). After the chrome, if you need, you can apply a commercial clear coat to protect it.

Each can costs 40 € (400 ml) and the minimum aerosol can pack is 24 cans. Plus shipping cost.
40 Euros per 400Ml tin, Minimum 24 tins.... Then clear coated... It's cheaper to have the stuff Chromed!!!

Oh and they said that..
First of all I wish to thank you for your interest in our products, we’ll have a distributor in UK but he’s working to set up the shop and not yet ready. He’ll need at least one month to be ready to operate. Meanwhile, there are no problems buying the products directly from us!
(Probably still struggling to get the financing to buy stock!)

This was back in January this year...

Paul.
pennymachines
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by pennymachines »

Tree-Frog was asking if anyone had tried the Gateros Plating Replica Chrome product, which is an electrolytic process, and therefore, in my opinion, more likely to offer a closer substitute for real chrome. I've not tried it yet, but probably will. The basic kit with "enough solution to plate up to 15,000 sq cm" is £39.50.
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treefrog
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by treefrog »

Yes you're right PM, I was talking about this product.

I noticed the seller is also selling most of the items on ebay, but at a higher prices. I am tempted by the brush on process for small parts and may buy a kit to see. They also do a de-chroming product where you leave in a solution bath and it apparently removes all Chrome and rust particles, again through the power source. If this works I may upgrade to the full system for things like bandit handles etc. This could save a lot of time and hassle if true to its word.

I will let you know if no-one else knows already before placing the order....
markymark
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by markymark »

The story continues.... seems we all want chrome!!!!
Just wanted to let you know I've just purchased the can of Liquid Chrome Aerosol (£20) spray after watching the youtube promotional video, here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUc8QsLjS1s

However.. things are never as they seem... the video looks great, but the huge list of instructions that are supplied with the can of spray means it's not that easy! You need to smooth primer the item... wet/dry fine rub down.. then spray gloss black as a basecoat, this must be extremely high gloss finish as this has a major effect on the outcome!!!! This needs flattening and wet/dry rub down, then it recommends covering with a Clear Base Coat, this should be UHS or Polyurethane clears, and NOT the Clear Laquer you buy in cans!!! Oh by the way, at each stage the company mention throughout the instructions that unless all these things are performed to a very high standard, the chrome effect will not be as good and may end up more silver!!! (a case of lets cover our backsides in case the customer wants a refund if its not shiny!!!!). 24 hours are to be left between coats, and recommend a week before applying the final chrome spray!!!
The chrome spray MUST be applied in a warm dust free environment, at least 23C (which they then say "failure to maintain this temp during spraying and drying will have a serious detrimental effect to the final chrome finish!").
Then when fully dry, polish lightly with cloth. If the item is for out door or will be handled another clear coat spray, 2-3 coats for longer lasting.

Are you all still with me, or drifted off....

So, if like me, you thought this was a simple spray can job like any others we do.. think again! :HaHa:

However, I'm going to film me doing the whole process so you can make your mind up as to whether it really is as good as chrome!

Keep watching!!!! Will film and post as soon as we get some decent weather!!!
raj
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by raj »

Well done for trying, I have tried many different 'chrome' effects, and none come close to the real deal. If you have a local plater/polisher, they will dechrome for you for next to nothing (they keep the recovered chrome) and leave you with clean metal to work with.

A 1/4 hp minimum bench grinder (600w is not powerful enough) will produce excellent results if you put on polishing wheels, esp on steel handles or small items. Use a rotary sanding machine or similar and 240 grit as a start is usually enough to get the grot off, finish on 400 and then use the polisher, finish with Autosolve and a coat of Cellulose laquer to stop rust. Flat metal is much harder to polish , as every swirl seems to catch the eye, even up to 800 grit and then a polishing wheel. I'm sure someone will tell me the best way to get a really good mirror finish.

I always leave ali castings to the pro's to polish (I've given up on chrome plating, it just isn't worth the expence on Ali). You need to remember that chrome plate is porous and damp will find a way in, so pot ali will start to flake sooner or later, which is why most castings have the dreaded white crust. Good car wax will help keep the finish as long as possible. I've found Autosolve too course for polished Ali, silver polish is much finer and should not spoil the finish. !!THUMBSX2!!
ballymad
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by ballymad »

OK, given up with rechrome due to cost and it's a shame to let a machine go because of badly pitted chrome.
So what you think, right or wrong? Answers appreciated.
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raj
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by raj »

Hi Ballymad, looks like a nice finish on the front. The hard part will be persuading the paint to stop on! :!:
Paint on chrome has poor adhesion and I've found the only way is to grind the plate back to a flat finish and use a wipe on primer, such as International Paints ( for tiles ) and then use a hammer finish. Ronseal hammer is best, (if you can find any) it gives a stove enamel effect and is very hard wearing. The new formula Hammerite is crap, :NBG: as are most 'Green' products, I've found. Flag paint is quite good ( from Tool Station), proper stuff, full of hydrocarbons and cancer forming products, sticks like s##t to a blanket. :burp:
Coins dropping onto a spray finish will chip and scratch in no time.
It might still polish up, you will have prepped the metal to take paint, so there is a good clean base to work on, and will be a lot cheaper than plating ( around £20 or so) :byee:
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special when lit
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by special when lit »

Found this on another forum I use.
Not used the guy, but maybe worth considering.
http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/chat/c ... mper-61844
malcymal
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by malcymal »

Ballymad I like the colour you sprayed it, very nice, what colour is that out of interest and who makes the paint? malc
ballymad
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by ballymad »

I did actually sand it down to so the chrome was removed.
The paint is Halfords Peugeot Royal Blue with a coat of lacquer on top.
It does chip, so wondered if a stove enamel finish would be better. Just trying to gauge what people think of a non-chromed finish.
At least with paint you could choose a colour to match your decor (great selling point).
Sadly I no longer work in a large industrial plant/site, so will have to cost stove finishing, although powder coating would be better.
Will have to price that as well.
malcymal
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by malcymal »

It does chip like hell as I experienced on a Continental. Just a six pence falling on it can leave its mark. You have to keep touching up with spray in the lid and a small brush. I think stove enamel looks more representative of the age, but aren't you looking at quite a lot of wonga for either stoved or powder coat? How much would a re-chrome cost in comparison, that is, if they can polish out the pitting?
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badpenny
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by badpenny »

pennymachines wrote:Gateros Plating looks like a promising UK source for all sorts of home plating and metal finishing products. As well as brass, bronze, copper, nickel and zinc, they sell a "Replica Chrome" plating kit, which, judging by the pictures, looks pretty effective, and requires less hazardous substances:
Ideal for DIY enthusiast, car or motorcycle restorer.

With this kit you will find it easy to get a bright mirror like finish with a hint of daylight just like chrome but without the problems associated with chrome plating. Replica Chrome will also give outstanding protection against corrosion. It also eliminates the need for a two step program like chrome...

The kit is easy to use as it is based on a Nickel alloy the finish is bright like chrome, keeps its shine like chrome and is harder than nickel. You can easily get outstanding results on various metals including steel, iron, brass, copper and if used in conjunction with the correct metallic spray it can also plate non metalic items, you can even plate on aluminium if used in conjunction with zincate. Setting up and getting started is easy, the plating process is quite quick with a typical 10 micron coating taking about 25 minutes...

Price £87 for a 5 ltr kit and £135 for a 9 ltr kit.





I'm tempted to give this a go. Anyone tried it already?

http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk
http://www.frost.co.uk
http://www.metalpolishingsupplies.co.uk
Nearly a year ago I replied to Pennymachines' post above and asked if anyone and gone down the home plating route. There are plenty of kits available, and I imagine some of you have by now.
So who can share their experiences with us?

Badpenny
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treefrog
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by treefrog »

I for one had planned to and as with all good intentions, never got around to it, but am still keen to try as could be a whole lot easier for small parts......too many things on at the moment, but it anyone else has tried it would be good to here results
raj
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by raj »

The fact that no one has spent quite a lump to buy the kit suggests it may not be cost effective for what we do. Most small parts can be rechromed for a fairly small sum using a chrome shop, so the kit would take some use to recoup the outlay, plus the materials would need replacing regularly. A decent bench grinder with polishing mops would cost a lot less, and last forever ( car boot or auction for the grinder) and give a good finish more in keeping with old arcade machines than bright shiny chrome. The added bonus is the constant hum of the grinder !!SHIT!! will annoy the neighbours more than the smell of the nasty chemicals !NITENITE!
livinginthepast
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Re: Re-Chrome

Post by livinginthepast »

I looked into the possibilities of chrome plating many years ago and at that time it was not a practical proposition as the chemicals used were very hazardous.
However i obtained the canning plating handbook and realised that nickel plating could be done at home quite easily.This gives a dull hard finish which when polished looks similar to stainless steel.I managed to obtain the nickel salts and degreaser from canning and a friend provided the nickel anode.I used a 12volt supply and bulbs to control the current which must be adjusted depending on the surface area to be plated.Results were good but considerable time was spent in preperation which is the key to the exercise.Many small parts i did twenty years ago for a motorcycle are still in good condition.
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