Ruffler & Walker allwin payout knob

[pennymachines]

...a lever that should move forward and tilt another lever that has a wire going down to what appears to be a lock for payout.

The lever indicated by your lower arrow is on a shaft which is riveted to a wide flat plate (the inner plate, visible to the left of the lever). The ball that triggers a win acts against this plate when you turn the handle, causing the lever to tilt the other lever, thereby lifting the payout lock. You can simulate a win by blocking the plate with your finger while cranking the payout knob.

[markymark]

Thanks for the explanation. I tried what you said and saw the movement and realised how it works. I made a couple of adjustments, one was bending the wire slightly to shorten it, the other re-setting the clamp around the shaft lower down that moves the arm that pushes the payout slides. All is now working.
Will post completed pictures tomorrow. Apart from the Payout knob (of course!!), which I will attempt to cast myself.. will keep people posted on to how it works out... If it doesn't, it's back to a screwdriver pushed through the hole!

[terry]

Hi Mark, you could try Jez Darvill at:

(email removed to avoid Spam. Email or PM forum member from here: Retreeva - Site admin.)

He carries a lot of allwin spares so you might be lucky. I've got a few spare payout knobs but not one for a R&W unfortunately.

Happy Hunting.

Terry.

[markymark]

So as promised here are the pictures of the finished R&W. I still need to sort out the payout knob that is missing, this I hope to be casting this weekend, I will document the process just in case anyone else is interested in how to cast in metal!
The final machine is now solid, all joints fixed, rubbed down, waxed. The mechanics are working perfectly now, new balls added, columns fill up and correct payouts. Had several problems with the column fingers sticking after they released the balls, real pain to adjust!
Love playing this so too do the kids. Hope you enjoy the pics.

Allwin as purchased

[slotalot]

Well done markymark
I almost went for that machine myself as I was down that way on holiday when it sold, I should have tried harder to get it
Fantastic Job

[radiochrissie]

Hi, can you tell me what wax product you used to finish this and did you seal the wood with anything before.
Great job !

[markymark]

The End of the Story....

And so the end is now... I've completed the entire R&W with new KNOB!!!!
This thread can RIP.
I cast the metal knob last night from a mould I made earlier yesterday. The results, I'm impressed with, never done anything like it before... Here are the final pictures. BTW: the case was not sealed, but waxed with Briwax Teak (has beeswax for deep shine and protection - that's what it says on the tin!!!).

The casting with steel rod fitted

The new payout handle in place - works good!

For those interested, I'll write an article about the whole process of casting parts in the Mechanical Memories Magazine

[pennymachines]

For those interested, I'll write an article about the whole process of casting parts in the Mechanical Memories Magazine

Excellent idea - look forward to it.
Magnifico Job and so quick!

[treefrog]

Having watched your machine develop at such a rapid pace, when you mentioned casting your own handle, I sort of assumed something a little cruder, that is incredible and definitely an item for the magazine, well done I for one would like to learn your natural talent and fascinated on the types of metal you used and mould

[slotalot]

What took you so long?....I thought I worked quickly, but that was near instant!!!
Well done, I look forward to a good read when it makes the magazine.

[splitpin]

WOW! That's amazing, especially without the original part to take a mould from. It may be that the only way I can get the parts I need for the gun carriage and front casting etc. for my Pussy Shooter will be to have a go at casting myself. Have been studying various techniques of aluminium castings on You Tube but will definitely subscribe to the magazine to learn how you've done it. Brilliant, I look forward to the article.

[13rebel]

Absolutely brilliant, I'm sure many of us wish we had that skill and knowledge. Look forward to the magazine article.

[JC]

Marky, that's a brilliant job. Those of us who have been around a few years and have a few restorations under our belts will know this wasn't a five-minute job.............and given that five-minute jobs generally take several hours, you've obviously put some considerable time into this (exactly how many days were you off '''''sick''''?
Anyway, well done. I hope this will be the first of many more, and I very much look forward to your article for the magazine. But please don't restrict it to the payout knob (which I'm sure would make an interesting article in itself) - why not make it a 'two parter' - part one, general restoration and part two, the process of producing the knob.
We'll all look forward to it.

Jerry

P.S. You have plenty of time - the next issue isn't till September.

[13rebel]

Two parter - good idea, as it would allow room for more in depth detail for the less experienced.

[badpenny]

Just to confirm I have absolutely no intention of succumbing to any temptation and asking markymark to make me a better knob from just a photo.
It would be childish, crass and anyway I haven't one of those zoom lenses.

[treefrog]

Mark, just read your article in MMM. Well it is a small world.

I know of Prince August and have been to their factory in Ireland, in fact I went there just after they opened in the mid '70s as my family had a farmhouse about 2 miles from the factory.
Ireland back then was very basic and this place was staggering/hi-tech as it is 10 miles from the nearest Town, Macroon in county Cork. Anyway, I have used their kits as a kid making lead soldiers with the same metals and moulds they still produce today.

The weird thing is that 18 months ago I almost went to use them again as I wanted a number of coin-op parts difficult to get hold of, eg British coin denominators and was going to make some using their process. They will actually make the moulds for you, although this seems to have been removed from their website. You send them your part and you will get back your hard rubber mould pre-cast ready to go for between £60 to £80 and they can be reused 100's of times, they even allow for shrinkage. I was going to knock a few hundred for other collectors, but since then have managed to buy a few as seen on another thread.

The only thing as you have pointed out, the metals they use are typically soft, lead and tin or a non toxic version as well. You can harden the mix by adding an increased amount of Tin, which they will sell you, but the moulds are only designed to operate for these types of metals. The only thing I was thinking, would have been whether you could have put a metal/steel collar at the base/neck where you were pinning through to the rod, as I guess this is where most of the stress will be. Masterful job with the wood mould, obviously very skilled on this front, I assume you allowed for shrinkage as well.

[JC]

Thanks again Mark for an excellent article for the magazine.
You should all have received the Dec. magazine by now. Mark supplied loads of pictures to compliment the article, but I couldn't use most of them - partly due to space, and partly due to the fact that they were quite dark, and although they look OK in colour, they looked pretty awful in B&W. I shall, however, post all the pictures in the MMM forum shortly (probably after Christmas).

Jerry

[markymark]

Thanks Jerry,
Glad you liked the article. As Jerry mentioned the photos will do the article justice, so hopefully these will be on line after Christmas.
I have further articles that may be of interest following recent trips to Vegas, and the teaching of my computer students of how things were achieved mechanically before computers!!!