Bajazzo Clown wall machines

[wembleylion]

Post split. Continues in Airship wall machines thread - Site Admin.

About 20 years ago I purchased a Clown Catcher that looks identical to the one shown in Treefrogs ‘Which Clown’ post

It has the number 22** B branded into the case in three places, top of right hand side, centre of case top and on the back board; the PMWG XX brand is on the top left hand side of the case. The number also appears on the patent label and on a little tag under the lock. I have eleven tokens which are also stamped with the 22** number.

When I got the machine the board that supports the playing surface was eaten way with woodworm, making the machine unplayable. I replaced the board making sure that the sizes and method of jointing were exactly the same as the original. Apart from this I have not done any other work to the machine opting to leave the patina of the years intact, which makes the machine look a bit scruffy.
Taking the cloth off the original board I was surprised to see that it was not brown in colour, as I had thought but dark red.

The black on white instruction card is the same as Treefrogs except that the words ‘Made in Saxony’ have been scratched out; this is very clear to see as it has left a noticeable dent in the card.

[silverbitz]

Hi all,
I generally have been collecting Mills bandits for the past couple of years but got the 'allwin/drop case' bug at the Coundon Club auction just gone. (Fantastic do once again by the way!)
Bought a couple that have certainly re kindled the fire again and also bought a bit of a case on fleebay recently. (pictured). I have posted a couple of requirements in the 'wanted' section if anyone could help.
My question is after collecting bandits, it's usually been an obvious decision whether to restore or not. However with the older wooden cases, such as this, should I strip it down completely or be somewhat more sympathetic to the patina it already has. The case obviously needs a base and correct hinges but should apart from that I leave it alone.

[jonesthegarage]

leave well alone and try and match the base as best you can. You can't fake patina like that, a sympathetic clean, wax or polish fine but general rule on old wood is leave it to look old. Although no doubt others will chip in with sand it down and start again. If in doubt look at the Bryans under the heading "over restored" in the forum recently. It looks like the case came off the shelf in Wickes this morning.

[treefrog]

Looked a nice original machine that, just the broken base and hinges....The looks like it has been like it for a long time....As stated you could try getting some to match a piece of wood or replace the whole base, but as recommended do not polish the brass or strip, lots of good age there...

[silverbitz]

Hi Guys. Thanks for the info regarding the wood. I tend to agree and have cleaned up the case as best I can for now and will apply polish next. The sides are fairly good but the top has a couple of black stains, one of which looks the shape of a 'spam' tin!!. Think it must have been sitting on it for the past 80/90 years!

All the PMWG markings are well stamped together with its number 4757B. Nice also see the 'Justice Scrutton's' label intact.

The movement seems to be in good shape with only minor adjustments needed, mainly clearing out decades of spiders which of course the wife was very pleased! I also now need a Yale lock as what appears to be the original is damaged and has no key.
Also, the token runner, would this have had a thin piece of glass over the top?

[pennymachines]

Also, the token runner, would this have had a thin piece of glass over the top?

Yes.

Oxalic acid is effective at removing dark water stains from oak. You might use it, for example, to lighten, rather than totally erase, the stain. See How to remove black stains on wood furniture.
On the other hand, if you're not refinishing the case, it might be better to leave well alone.

[silverbitz]

Thanks for that PM, I'll give it a try.

[clown444]

Topic merged - Site Admin.

Thanks to the helpful advice and suggestions on this forum, I have at last finished restoring my Clown Catcher machine.

I have to confess the clown is cardboard, but I am hoping to find an artist who could paint it onto steel for me...unless of course I happen across an original.

I would now like to get a replacement cylinder lock for the 15mm diameter hole, but am having trouble finding one - any suggestions gratefully received.

Laurie

[gameswat]

Fantastic! And well done leaving the brass work unpolished, just mildy cleaned. On these early machines it's so nice to see the age showing through.

[widget2k4]

That is amazing. Well done.

[wembleylion]

Wow, brilliant transformation. Well done.
John

[jimmycowman]

That's a first class job.

[wembleylion]

Just a thought re the cardboard clown.

It is possible to get (eBay) self adhesive photo paper, gloss, silk or matte, for inkjet and laser printers so it would be possible to print off a clown and stick it to a piece of tin and cut out the shape with a pair of heavy duty scissors.

John

[cheeky]

I seem to recall that someone has reproduced metal clowns for sale. I just can't remember who was selling them.

[gameswat]

I've seen repro clowns on German eBay a while ago. Probably the closest and easiest way to repro your own is to use the water decal paper to make a transfer. Stuck on a tin copy of the figure nobody will know the difference.

[moonriver]

That's a great job, I'm sure your services would be in great demand. Think of all those machines around the country in lofts, spare rooms and sheds bought with the intention of restoration but never started.

[clown444]

Thank you all for the very kind comments regarding the restoration....and for the advice on the clown figure.

If anyone knows where I can source a suitable lock for the cabinet , do please let me know.
Laurie

[gameswat]

If anyone knows where I can source a suitable lock for the cabinet , do please let me know

Would help to see inside the door where the lock fits into, as this will determine the correct syle lock needed. As there are a "lock" of different shapes!

[gameswat]

Thanks gameswat

Are you really sure about the number 103B should be a serial number and a unique number for my machine?
Mr Pennymachine had a guess that it would be a model number and in this case a machine that have an improvement compared to the clown 103.

I don´t say that you are wrong but it would be logical to put the letter "B" after the number to prove that the machine has been improved.
Do you know anything about the other numbers and letters on the side of the cabinet L.M.O 103
SAMC660

fredslilja

Only 8 years to reply... Just stumbled over this thread while researching - the PM site has become a real maze of interesting threads with so much information.
Yes, very sure that the number 103B is the machines unique serial number. In fact I think every single number plate I've seen has been suffixed by the "B". Most probably to stand for "Bajazzo" so that J&M didn't end up with ridiculously long serial numbers when you add up the huge production and model lines they had. I have about 50 Clown tokens all uniquely numbered to match those machine numbers, but they didn't bother adding the "B", since they have Bajazzo or Clown embossed on them anyway.

Also found a handful of SAMC tokens the same size as the Clown tokens. I think John Peterson was most probably correct and the stamp on your machine was added by Samson Novelty Co when they operated your machine, plus had their own tokens made with matching serial numbers as shown. Hopefully Fredslilja comes back to read this as has been absent from posting since 2012.

[fredslilja]

Thanks Gameswat

Better late than ever. The last couple of years I have laid low on this hobby, but check in once a while to keep up.

Hopefully soon there will be time to start up project.