S&L Conveyor

[scorpa163]

Thanks Stuart, I was not aware of the one in Resources.

[gameswat]

Is your backflash original or have you printed it?

Original with retouching. Before I stripped it down it looked decent. But on cleaning quite a lot of dry paint rubbed off and what was there was fragile to say the least. I had to stabilise with clear lacquer, the red just needed minor hand retouching, but the blue sky was totally gone, the green was 3/4 faded and the purple 1/2 faded. I hand masked and resprayed over all those three colours. Many hours of carefully cutting shapes using high end delicate masking tape. I sprayed with a water based acrylic ink so the original paint underneath actually shows through. Then locked that in with clear acrylic lacquer. I've had three of these and all were missing the sky.

[gameswat]

I did manage to find this one photo showing what I assume to be an original cashbox, from the recent auction in Queensland. It likely didn't have a hinged door but just a top rhd corner opening for the coins to enter, and then you could pour the coins out the same hole once the tin was unlocked and taken out. And note the four original BMCo marquee brackets in there for good measure!

[jimmycowman]

Mine.

[pennymachines]

Cool! Never seen the cashbox before.

[gameswat]

Thanks cowman! I measured my locking bracket and exactly 8" high. I think there were two wooden brackets, one nailed to the base and one vertically nailed to the steel back to keep it in place. I noticed the two vertical nail holes when I was de-rusting and painting the steel.

[slotalot]

Just as a mater of interest, a few years ago I had a Conveyor with an electrical ball release instead of a lever, it looked to have been retro fitted at some time
But why anyone would want to over complicate things in such a way is beyond me

[gameswat]

But why anyone would want to over complicate things in such a way is beyond me

I've seen this done on various arcade machines to convert for more modern coinage.

[pennymachines]

I guess it might also go some way to making the electrics less lethal. The original mechanical system uses the metal ball and release lever to make and break the 240 volt circuit.

[gameswat]

I guess it might also go some way to making the electrics less lethal. The original mechanical system uses the metal ball and release lever to make and break the 240 volt circuit.

Yes PM, truly lethal! I was going to post this anyway. I always remove that ball switch and replace with a microswitch so there is total isolation of the 240v from the ball and steel panels. This time I even made a Bakelite cover for the switch. The new mounting bracket is slotted where the switch attaches so there is some adjustment to fine tune.

I also do away with the two contacts that bring power to the door when closed, which are two brass spring blades on each side of the cabinet, and two corresponding brass plates on the top corners of the door. On the previous two machines I added a Bakelite female three pin socket to the lhd cabinet side with a male plug with short lead to the mech. The third wire is to add a much needed earth to the door. It was a pain compared to just lifting the door off though as you had to partly tilt open and then unplug or replug. This time in my spare parts I've found a couple of Bakelite three pin inline socket plugs that are quite small with the pins inline and looks like with either one I can attach the male section to where one of the brass plates once sat on the door frame, then the female part will be screwed to the cabinet side and the two will mate just as the door is locked.