Sega Victory

[coppinpr]

Thinking about what bP said about it shouldn't be working for free as shown in the photo, the only way it would make sense is if the power IS getting to the mech, all the time, as soon as the mech is pushed back in. As it stands in the photo, it's in the correct position because the power has been cut by taking out the mech. This would make me think it's just the cut out switch that cancels the solenoid as soon as the handle is pulled not cutting off the power - easy to check.

Yes, these do seem to have the same front as the Bucks, leading us to believe that AI bought machines from Sega and converted them to their own types.

[masgalaxy]

Hi BP,

Thank you very much for your help, I will try and let you know...
Just one clue for your PS question : I am not on a isle but in my country, we eat frogs and snales !... Whaaaaaa ....

cheers,

[badpenny]

So you live in a ditch.

[coppinpr]

No, he lives on the other side of the ditch

[jimmy55]

Is there a good source for the plugs that fit the ends of the three flourescent tubes in the front?

[badpenny]

Which ..... frogs or snails?

[jimmy55]

For some reason this forum becomes even more surreal when you blokes have had a weekend away in Coventry .....is there something in the beer over there?

[coppinpr]

Which ..... frogs or snails?

You live in the north BP, you only know one sauce... brown

[malcymal]

I had the same machine, Sega Victory, with the same problem you reported. The problem with mine was down to dry joints attaching to the rear of the coin acceptor mech. As I sold the machine last year, I do not have it in front of me to take a pic, but it was purely down to one wire off.

From memory, there is a circular plate which sits behind the coin acceptor mech. This rejects slugs, bad coins, etc. It's electro magnetic. I think there are something like 3 coloured wires around this, on the left side, and 3 on the right. One had popped off. I soldered it back on and the whole play sequence started. With a coin being inserted, you hear a click where the solenoid allows the arm to be pulled.

There are two micro switches to work on too. On my machine these were sticky. I got them working using Servisol electrical cleaning spray. One sits near the arm actuator anvil on the lower right side of the real mech, and the other is on the lower left hand of reel mech, when looking from the front. It's low down and detects when the play cycle has finished to allow the entry of a further coin for the next play. With power off, spray these with electrical contact cleaner and work them by hand until you start hearing a regular 'clicking noise' of the switch. It took me about an hour to get mine fully working.

You might need to adjust the thin wire below the coin acceptor unit. The coin drops onto this dragging it down to actuate the electrical play circuit. If this is misshaped, it might not travel far enough to create the play circuit. A bit of light bending and experimentation will sort this.
Malc

[malcymal]

Here we go - here's a pic. Check that all these wires are still in place!!!! Any one off will stop the play circuit.
Malc.

[masgalaxy]

Hi,

The french guy is back !
Well, I had a quick look on the electric system. When I plug the machine, I have 230 v (good !) but on the coin acceptor, I have only 3 v. It seems to be poor, does it ?

I think the all week end will be on this electric system.

Cheers

[badpenny]

Oh you're French?
Excuse me while I relax my stiff upper lip so I can sip my tea.

I imagine your reading of 230 v is Alternating Current and the 3 v is Direct Current? As has already been suggested a dry connection is likely to give such a low voltage reading.

Does the power get as far as the blue solenoid? If so what reading? I imagine you'd need at least 15 volt DC to make it twitch.

If the voltage is high before it gets to the coin accepting microswitch then try bypassing the microswitch and see if the solenoid moves then.

BP

[urbanbody]

First check your wiring, after the transformer.
The Voltage from the transformer is AC.

Is there a bridge rectifier on it? AC to DC.

salut Masgalaxy
verifies ta sortie de transfo pour voir si il y a du courant (alternatif) ensuite il devrait y avoir un pont de diodes pour passer l'alternatif en continue
ce genre de truc:

96e813f9ad27934.jpg (8.35 KiB) Viewed 3475 times

ou:

pont-diode-b250c-5000a.png (80.56 KiB) Viewed 3475 times

si le pont de diode est mort tu n'auras pas de courant, une photo de l ensemble transfo? stp

or is it all AC?

[badpenny]

Après vous faites cuire les moules ajouter le vin et faire monter la pression.

It will be DC surely after the transformer.

[urbanbody]

Only if there is a bridge rectifier...

There is a yellow plug not plugged!!

[masgalaxy]

Hi everybody,

Thank you for your support.
I checked the transformer, I have DC power (in and out). I can't find a bridge rectifier ...
I think the violet cable is the earth (?) but it is cut (normal ?)

Another question about the coin adaptor : it seems that something is missing there ... an elastic ????

Salut Urbanbody,
J'ai du courant alternatif en entree et sortie du transfo. Le fil violet me semble etre la masse mais le fil est coupé. Est ce normal ?
Quelle puissance dois je trouver en sortie du transfo ?
Je ne vois pas de pont de diodes ...

Sur le coin adaptor, j'ai l'impression qu'il manque une pièce du type élastique ....

Merci, thanks

Edit : sorry, the second photo was not the good one ....
Don't have a look on this photo :

[urbanbody]

difficile de repondre sans les schemas et codes couleur pour les cables
la priorité serait de trouver ce schema

photo 1
le connecteur a un paquet de fils coupés et t'as des fils avec du scotch isolant qui pendent... tu crois pas que l'ensemble a été coupé a l'arrache pour etre en free play?

photo 2 une vue plus rapprochée nous serait utile... penses tu qu il manque un ressort de rappel?
le cable mauve est commun avec le rouge et bleu?

photo 3 ça ressemble plus a un cache qu 'a un connecteur?

il n'est pas present sur cette photo:

inside 10.jpg (74.67 KiB) Viewed 3475 times

[urbanbody]

Which ..... frogs or snails?

i don't really like frogs :no taste at all...... but snails are really delicious!

let'em without food for 4 days, then rince 'em with salted water

slice onions,garlic,persil,laurier
cook'em in three teaspoon of olive oil for 5 minutes, add the onions for 5minutes then the garlic
cover the snails with one part of "cotes du rhone rouge" and "one part of cotes du rhone blanc" (not the cheapest ones)
add the rest of the ingredients
salt ;pepper and let it cook slowly for 2 or three hours or more ...'til the sauce is dark and creamy
take 'em out with a non used toothpick and...

...enjoy!!

[masgalaxy]

Salut,

Je vais essayer de faire un schéma ...

Sur la photo 1, les fils qui pendent sont connectés au fusible. A priori, rien à signaler de ce coté car j'ai bien 230 volt qui arrivent au transfo. A la sortie du transfo, je trouve environ 28 volt en courant alternatif.

Sur la photo 2, le fil jaune avec embout rouge est en haut et le bleu et relié en bas avec le violet. Voici un photo rapprochée :

Sur la photo 3, il s'agissait d'un cache (que j'ai enlevé) et qui devrait permettre le freeplay.
Merci à toi

I like snails too ! Thank you for the recipe.

[urbanbody]

the wiring has been modified...one yellow cable has been cut and the purple is soldered by a noob!



here we can see a lot of cable have been cut on the connector (what do you plug on it?)


i'm almost sure the red and blue cables above the fuse holder was on the connector
i suppose you connect the rest of the machine on it?