Sega Victory

[masgalaxy]

Hi,
I have a Sega Victory Slot machine and want to restore it.
The machine seems to be OK but you can play without a coin. I think the problem comes from the electric system.
I am looking for an electric diagram. Could you help me?
Thanks.

[badpenny]

Hi there masgalaxy and welcome to the forum.

Post a photo of the machine, also close ups of the mech.
I think I know the machine but could be mistaken.
If it's the one I'm thinking of, it is electro-mechanical with a micro switch just below the coin checker which activates a solenoid on the right hand side (facing the machine from the front). The solenoid allows the dog to engage.

Is it on freeplay without needing to be plugged in?

If it's not the one I'm thinking of, then I'm talking out of my elbow.

Badpenny.

[masgalaxy]

Hi Badpenny,

Thank you for your reply!
You're right, it is on freeplay without needing to be plugged in!

Please find some photos:

door.jpg (40.92 KiB) Viewed 3629 times

inside.jpg (39.27 KiB) Viewed 3629 times

inside 2.jpg (45.12 KiB) Viewed 3629 times

inside 3.jpg (70.98 KiB) Viewed 3629 times

inside 4.jpg (61.8 KiB) Viewed 3629 times

inside 5.jpg (58.9 KiB) Viewed 3629 times

Thanks

[badpenny]

Right Chap ...........

We now need a face on close up of the circled area. In order for the mech to engage without power, someone has to have cobbled something there.

victory.png (210.07 KiB) Viewed 3626 times

Here is the microswitch that the coin trips upon entry. I can see the case but is the switch there? Does its trip poke through to the front under the coin checker? Does it click? Is it wired up?

victory2.png (214.17 KiB) Viewed 3626 times

Do the lights work?

BP

Edited to add ............

Looking at the inside of the empty case, is that a bound up length of loose wire at the back in the middle?



Is there a wire that goes from the transformer to a small plastic plug which in turn fits another on wired onto the mechanism? Another way of asking that one is ...... Do you have to separate two plugs in order to remove the mechanism?

[masgalaxy]

Well, I am not a specialist but will try to answer...

First, the close up of the circled area:

Then, the microswitch:

I can not hear any click, just a sound of the coin passing in the mechanism

The lights in the door work.

Inside of the empty case, the safety relay is OK :

Yes, the mechanism is plugged with two separate plugs (hope I understand your question).

Thanks

[badpenny]

Well the first thing to note is that you are missing the coin acceptor which is also the slug rejector.
Your second photo shows the case which the acceptor slots into. The missing bit would look something like this ........

........... and it would need to be the correct coin denomination, in your case the old shilling/large 5np.

After the coin drops through and trips the microswitch beneath your missing acceptor the blue solenoid shown in your first photo would energise allowing the dog above it to engage handle to the rear axle which runs across the back of the mechanism. There may be another microswitch on the opposing side which then cancels out the solenoid ready for the next coin.

Your last photo seems to show a fuse which you have labelled Safety Relay, however amongst the bundle of wiring there's a loose spade terminal doing nothing. When you say it's ok, I think you're saying it hasn't blown ...... however you need to know if whizzy bang is getting that far. If it isn't why not? And where does it go or better still where does it stop? A simple meter would tell you so long as you're not in the habit of doing your repairs whilst lounging around in the bath.

That and the missing coin acceptor suggest you should get somebody with at least a basic understanding of electrikery that is if you don't feel confident yourself. I have had one of those machines a couple of decades since. It took little time to get it accepting coins and playing but it took ages to get it resetting automatically afterwards. I finally realised that the lighting circuit wires ran clipped to the feed wires for the solenoid and enough power was being induced across to keep the solenoid held open, thus causing it to stay on free play.
However that did need the power to be on.

BP

[masgalaxy]

I think I have the coin acceptor:

I just put it out for the photo to show you the microswitch...

I think the problem is the solenoid (never opened).

Well, I will test all the electric system this weekend and let you know.

Thanks a lot.

All the best.

[badpenny]

Time then to put a meter across the transformer and then work your way South.
As soon as you stop getting a reading then suck your teeth, shake your head and say.........
"Well there's yer problem lady ..... I'll do my best but yer just can't get the spares ya see"

As well as looking for power, put the meter on continuity and check the microswitches are working - it's probably something as simple as that.

I'm still puzzled as to why it's playing for free when not plugged in as, looking at your photo that I asked for, it shouldn't be.

Don't worry - we'll get there ........ I don't know where there is but I'm sure we'll arrive.

BP
ps ......... where in this festering isle are you?

[coppinpr]

One thing not quite clear from the photos and would be the first thing to check is, is the power from the case getting to the mech? There is a a socket inside the case (which we can see from the photo) but it's not all that clear if the plug is located on the mech ready to connect when the mech is pushed back in. If it's there, then check all the pins are straight and not bent, that it is clean (use switch cleaner) and that it connects firmly when the mech is pushed in. If this is not making contact, the lights would work but the mech electrics won't.

[jimmy55]

Interesting..... Am I right in thinking it's exactly the same front and mech as my Buckingham?

[coppinpr]

Thinking about what bP said about it shouldn't be working for free as shown in the photo, the only way it would make sense is if the power IS getting to the mech, all the time, as soon as the mech is pushed back in. As it stands in the photo, it's in the correct position because the power has been cut by taking out the mech. This would make me think it's just the cut out switch that cancels the solenoid as soon as the handle is pulled not cutting off the power - easy to check.

Yes, these do seem to have the same front as the Bucks, leading us to believe that AI bought machines from Sega and converted them to their own types.

[masgalaxy]

Hi BP,

Thank you very much for your help, I will try and let you know...
Just one clue for your PS question : I am not on a isle but in my country, we eat frogs and snales !... Whaaaaaa ....

cheers,

[badpenny]

So you live in a ditch.

[coppinpr]

No, he lives on the other side of the ditch

[jimmy55]

Is there a good source for the plugs that fit the ends of the three flourescent tubes in the front?

[badpenny]

Which ..... frogs or snails?

[jimmy55]

For some reason this forum becomes even more surreal when you blokes have had a weekend away in Coventry .....is there something in the beer over there?

[coppinpr]

Which ..... frogs or snails?

You live in the north BP, you only know one sauce... brown

[malcymal]

I had the same machine, Sega Victory, with the same problem you reported. The problem with mine was down to dry joints attaching to the rear of the coin acceptor mech. As I sold the machine last year, I do not have it in front of me to take a pic, but it was purely down to one wire off.

From memory, there is a circular plate which sits behind the coin acceptor mech. This rejects slugs, bad coins, etc. It's electro magnetic. I think there are something like 3 coloured wires around this, on the left side, and 3 on the right. One had popped off. I soldered it back on and the whole play sequence started. With a coin being inserted, you hear a click where the solenoid allows the arm to be pulled.

There are two micro switches to work on too. On my machine these were sticky. I got them working using Servisol electrical cleaning spray. One sits near the arm actuator anvil on the lower right side of the real mech, and the other is on the lower left hand of reel mech, when looking from the front. It's low down and detects when the play cycle has finished to allow the entry of a further coin for the next play. With power off, spray these with electrical contact cleaner and work them by hand until you start hearing a regular 'clicking noise' of the switch. It took me about an hour to get mine fully working.

You might need to adjust the thin wire below the coin acceptor unit. The coin drops onto this dragging it down to actuate the electrical play circuit. If this is misshaped, it might not travel far enough to create the play circuit. A bit of light bending and experimentation will sort this.
Malc

[malcymal]

Here we go - here's a pic. Check that all these wires are still in place!!!! Any one off will stop the play circuit.
Malc.