Duchess one arm bandit in Lincoln. Help fix?

[dicky_88]

Hi, picked up from Newark antique fair today. Mechanism looks like it might work. Replaced plug. Doesn't work when I plug it in still. Anybody think they could fix this as I'm not good at this.

[coppinpr]

Are you saying you want help to fix this machine? If so, there doesn't seem much wrong with it if the mech is working as you say. Clean, rub down and repaint the front, replace any lights that aren't working and that's about it. It's clearly a UK revamp of a German mech. Hope it wasn't expensive, it's rare that's for sure

[dicky_88]

Sorry I should have been clearer. When I plug it in it doesn't work but I can see the system working when I open it.

[treefrog]

Hey I miss the fairs,

I have a few of these and as Coppin points out, this is a mechanical bandit and should not need electricity to work, just for the lights, then I see that little knob at the bottom right, like on an old stereo. Never seen one of those before, soooo can we see pictures inside the cabinet, both the top and cash tray area - may help understand what this is doing.

[dicky_88]

I didn't take one of inside coin tray as it is just a metal tray inside the cabinet. I can pull the handle and see it go down while open but nothing spins.

[treefrog]

OK, just realised these knobs are just replacements to the locks.

If you insert a coin and pull the handle, does the coin drop down into the coin tube. Does the mechanism engage at all?

[dicky_88]

Not sure if the picture is coming up. The coins runs through the system and out the little change slot.

[treefrog]

If the coin falls out to the hole just below the window, it sounds like you have an issue with the coin mechanism, e.g. a jammed coin or some other obstruction. A picture would help of the mechanism.

[dicky_88]

Here's inside.

Yeah, it's the hole beneath the window. Machine came with a few really old big 1 pences from around 1912 which I've tried using.

[tazmantic]

Hi dicky_88 I have one of these machines that I bought recently which I had to make quite a few bits for. The reason the coin drops straight out the reject tube is because the plate is missing off the front of the coin mech (covers the big oval hole at the top). There are pics of these on the forum (I would add one but cant find it at hand). If you search 'Princess' it shows it, as the mech is the same. Try either holding the long arm on the right up as you pull the handle (this will engage the mech - it will move down) or just put a coin in the slot at the right of the oval hole and pull the arm... Report back on what happens.

Taz

[tazmantic]

Here's some pics.

[badpenny]

Hi .......

I was at Newark today and spoke to the chap who sold you it - he's often on here and a mate.
He told me about you - said I should keep an eye out for you as I am in Lincoln.

As Tazmantic says, you need one of those bits he's photographed. We can sort that out if you want.

Where in Lincoln are you?

BP

[dicky_88]

Ah fantastic. I'm just off Monks Road. If you can quote me a price and if you/anybody else can literally fix it for me for a fee so that (hopefully) it is in a running order - then this would be fantastic.

[glittering-prize67]

Yep, that is a re-cased German mech, fully mechanical,1 or 2 small t8 lamps at a guess. That's all the plugs for.

[badpenny]

I'll pm you.

BP

[dicky_88]

Thank you Jeremy for coming around today. Fingers crossed it can work again. I am very much appreciative for all the assistance.

[badpenny]

Update and interesting observation.

Having found elements of this Günther Wulff mechanism to be gummed up or in the case of the payout totally seized I removed it and stripped it down.

Dismantled Payout

My attention was immediately attracted to two oddities.
One was there were a number of very well made aluminium reproduction slides.

Repro & Original

The second was that I found the answer to why the original slides were made with series of small holes in the face. I had always supposed they were part of the manufacturing process. However I now see that they inserted pins to hold two slides together to double a payout.

Studs for doubling up

Male and Female

Interestingly they didn't always concentrate on what they were doing for in the above photo you'll notice that the dimple which assists the payout rod to reset would be useless as after mounting the two slides together it'd be hidden on the wrong side.

What is most strange is that after going to so much bother to manufacture new slides out of aluminium, somebody has gone to immense trouble to get them all exactly wrong. The holes are too small, I thought at first they were preparing to convert it to 2np, but they're far too big for those.

Original is correct size, whilst repro. is too small

........... not only that, but they didn't centralise the holes.

Difference in holes .... bugger!

So now we'll find out just how steady my hands are after I've found my Dremmel.

BP

[dicky_88]

Hmm interesting. Thanks for the update, looks as though this is one that needs a lot more work than originally thought!

[glittering-prize67]

Nice one Jeremy, but the original is rounded on the outer edge, giving more material round the hole. The repro is cut straight, so to make it fit an old penny it will be incredibly thin. Also, aluminium is very soft and will wear very quick. It should really be brass, but that's harder to work with.

[badpenny]

What you say is true GP67 however aluminium will always be stronger than the pot metal originals.
We have to remember these machines were only built for a life of three years, and many are still struggling along 57 years later.

Doing better than I am in fact, so I'm optimistic the biggest weakness will be my dodgy hand to eye coordination.

I have a very early German wall machine in my pile marked "requires oodles of coats of looking at", which is cracking and de-laminating so nicely that I am now assigned to having to use lumps of its frame as a pattern to cast aluminium replacements. This being the only way I imagine it can be saved.
Straight breaks like the slide shown in the market I have had more than a modicum of success in repairing with modern adhesives (it's all in the preparation), but I'm now entering the world of replacement casting.
For those who don't know me, the mental image of me stumbling around in the back garden with an old saucepan of molten alloy sloshing about should be enough to stimulate much elbow nudging and whispered comments such as this should be good .... where's me camera?

I estimate 3 or 4 trial runs before I'm anywhere near understanding what's required to produce an acceptable result, which will be about a fortnight after we've all bought a 3D printer.

Hmm interesting. Thanks for the update, looks as though this is one that needs a lot more work than originally thought!

So far so good "dicky_88" panic ye not, we've brought a lot worse than this back from the brink. The way I look at it is ...... It could be a lot worse ....... it could be mine instead of yours joke!


BP